Having a new puppy is EXCITING!

It can also be overwhelming and stressful. We get it. Raising a puppy is hard work. And if you’re like most puppy parents, you’re worried about getting everything ‘just right’.

First things first: You’re doing a GREAT job!

And second? We got you. You don’t need to navigate puppyhood alone.

Practical, Positive Help from Trusted Puppy Experts

Our certified behavior consultants and board certified veterinary behaviorists created this essential Puppy Parenting Guidebook to help you feel confident, prepared, and supported every step of the way.

We cover topics like:

• Socialization Do’s & Don’ts
• Crate Training
• Potty Training
• Biting & Nipping
• Essential Gear

…and SO much more!

Ready to Get Started?

Download our completely FREE Puppy Parenting Guidebook below:

Need In-Person Support?

We’re here to help!

Our certified, veterinarian-recommended trainers offer fully-customized puppy training support in the form of Private Coaching, Home School Programs, and Puppy Raising Camps.

All of our programs include lifetime support via free & low-cost alumni classes; an exclusive, Alumni-only Facebook group; and access to free weekly drop-in Q&A sessions with Instinct trainers.

Find your nearest Instinct Location; we’d love to connect and learn more about how we can help you & your puppy live a happier life together.

The post The Ultimate Puppy Parenting Guidebook appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Your puppy is growing up! As puppies enter early adolescence, it is important to understand that – just like human teenagers – their behavior will naturally change and develop, particularly when it comes to play with other dogs; listening skills & manners; and conflict resolution strategies.

Let’s take a closer look at how our pups’ needs change in each of these important areas.

I. PLAY WITH OTHER DOGS

Playtime with other dogs can be an important social activity for dogs at every stage of their life. However, our dogs’ socialization needs change over time, and adolescence is no exception! The socialization experiences our dogs have during adolescence can have a lasting impact on their long-term outlook on dog-dog play.

Here’s what you should know about dog-dog play during early adolescence:

1. Other Dogs May Start to Treat Your Pup Differently

Between 5-6 months, your pup’s “Puppy Pass” expires. Dogs will begin to hold your puppy to a more adult standard of appropriateness when it comes to dog-dog interactions.

What does this mean?

• Typical puppy behaviors – biting at tails, ears and cheeks; placing paws up on other dogs’ shoulders; recklessly running into others; lots of muzzle licking, etc. – that were previously tolerated by adult dogs may now elicit a mild or moderate correction instead.
• These corrections can be scary to still-young pups who are left wondering why other dogs are suddenly taking offense to their super-cool puppy play moves.

2. Your Puppy May Start to Engage with Other Dogs Differently

Young adolescents may start to test the boundaries of appropriateness when interacting with other dogs. They can experiment with rude and impolite behaviors, and they often miss or ignore more subtle communication signals from other dogs asking them to tone it down.

What does this mean?

• It is important to choose play partners carefully during adolescence. Pups need to learn boundaries for polite play to avoid developing bullying tendencies, but they are also still young, sensitive, and highly impressionable.

Tips for Navigating Dog-Dog Play Sessions During Early Adolescence

There are some simple guidelines you can follow to set your young adolescent dog up for success during dog-dog play:

• Learn to read dog body language during play, so you can identify when your dog (or their playmate) needs a break, when things are getting out of hand, and when everyone is having a good time.
• Teach your dog a solid recall cue so you can call them out of dicey situations.
• Choose the right playmates:
  • Other adolescent pups of similar size and play style
  • Patient, socially savvy adult dogs who enjoy play and set clear boundaries through fair, appropriate feedback
• Avoid the wrong playmates:
  • Baby puppies aged 8-16 weeks are generally not well-suited to play with young adolescent dogs, as the “teenagers” can slip into bullying behaviors and overwhelm young pups. Exceptions include shy and very mild mild-mannered adolescents.
  • Stay away from adult dogs who are quick to give overly harsh corrections, especially if they are larger than your adolescent pup. Remember, your puppy is still young and impressionable; regular exposure to adult dogs who respond to careless play with inappropriate levels of aggression can leave your pup with lasting feelings of insecurity and uncertainty about interacting with other dogs.
• Opt for 1-on-1 play sessions, or a small, well-matched group.
• Start with a calm, low-arousal activity like a parallel walk or some training practice, before starting playtime. High arousal levels equal a higher likelihood of poor decisions and altercations.
• Keep play sessions relatively short, about 25-45 minutes. Any longer than that, and dogs typically start to run low on self-control, making them more likely to make poor decisions.

II. LISTENING SKILLS & MANNERS

As pups enter adolescence, they can become less responsive to known obedience cues and seem to suddenly forget their manners (sound familiar, parents of human tweens and teens?!). It is important to remember that your dog isn’t purposefully trying to be bad or to aggravate you. They are going through a totally normal – if sometimes frustrating – phase of their development.

What does this mean?

1. It’s Time to Train!

Now is the time to double-down on daily positive reinforcement-based training that focuses on fun, engagement, cooperation, and trust.

• Your puppy is growing up! It is natural that they want to broaden their horizons, exercise their independence, and experiment with new behaviors.
• Choose playful, positive reinforcement-based training that fosters a dynamic in which your growing pup genuinely enjoys listening to and engaging with you, and trusts that you are ALWAYS a safe place to turn as they explore their independence.
• KEEP IT POSITIVE! Resist the urge to turn to harsher, more aversive training techniques in an attempt to shut down these sometimes -obnoxious teenage behaviors. You’ll run the risk of destroying your pup’s trust in you as a safe place to turn while they figure out the world around them, and you can inadvertently create more serious, long-lasting behavior issues in the process.

2. It’s Time to Manage the Situation!

It is normal to need to make some temporary adjustments to your environment and routine, to temporarily scale back on certain freedoms and add in safety & management measures, in order to set your pup up for success during early adolescence. Here are some common examples:

• Owners often need to utilize a long line during off-leash time for a little while, to ensure their pup’s recall stays reliable during adolescence.
• Adolescent dogs are LARGER than puppies, and their cognitive abilities are increasing, too. It is common to use a gate to keep your adolescent pup out of the kitchen to prevent them from discovering the joys of counter-surfing and trashcan-raiding.

III. CONFLICT RESOLUTION STRATEGIES

As our puppies transition into adolescence, they may begin to experiment with solving problems in a more adult manner. Sometimes, these new behaviors are just temporary blips that are a normal part of development, and are nothing to be concerned about. Other times, they are an important signal that our pups need help with confidence building and coping skills to ensure these new behaviors don’t turn into longer term behavior issues.

What to Watch for:

• Puppies who displayed fearful or cautious behavior around certain people, dogs or objects may now begin to display more proactive distance-increasing behaviors – lunging, snapping, barking – toward those concerning triggers.
• Puppies who displayed overly submissive body language or appeasement behavior when meeting other dogs (e.g., immediately rolling over and exposing their belly/groin, excessively licking other dogs’ muzzles, etc.) may experiment with more forward communication signals that indicate their discomfort and desire for space. Growling, raising a lip, snapping, and lunging are all new tactics that may be utilized to ask the other dog to move away.

It is a great idea to work with a skilled trainer or behavior consultant during this important phase of your pup’s life, so you can identify which behavior changes are a normal part of development, and which should be addressed with specific behavior modification efforts.

RECAP: UNDERSTANDING CHANGING BEHAVIOR NEEDS DURING EARLY ADOLESCENCE

Remember, changes in behavior are NORMAL as your dog progresses through different stages of development. Here are three common changes that may occur during early adolescence:

1. Your dog’s behavior around other dogs may change during adolescence. Providing opportunities for safe, healthy play with appropriate play partners is important.
2. Your dog’s responsiveness to obedience skills may change, and you may see a regression in manners. Don’t panic! Implement daily positive reinforcement-based training that focuses on fun and engagement.
3. Your dog’s conflict resolution strategies may change, and they may experiment with more proactive behaviors to create space for themselves. Work with a trainer to determine whether these changes are a normal part of development, or something that should be addressed via behavior modification.

Learn More about Canine Adolescence

Check out Canine “Teenagers”, a seriously awesome episode of our podcast, DogLab, featuring Dr. Naomi Harvey of Dogs Trust. Dr. Harvey discusses her recent (fascinating) research on canine adolescence and provides a ton of helpful info and advice on helping owners navigate through this phase of development in a positive manner.

Feeling Overwhelmed?

Adolescence is different for every dog, with some presenting more challenging issues and behaviors than others. Hang in there! There is help available. Reach out to us at Instinct, or find a certified dog behavior consultant near you via www.iaabc.org.

The post Canine Teenagers: Navigating Early Adolescence with Your Growing Pup appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Potty training a puppy takes effort and consistency, but it is generally a fairly straightforward process if you follow some simple rules and guidelines.

KEY #1: MAINTAIN A PREDICTABLE SCHEDULE

Maintaining a consistent, predictable schedule helps your puppy get into the routine of potty training and makes it easier for them to build good habits. In this section, we’ll review how to:

• 1.a) Follow the Potty Training Flow Chart
• 1.b) Set up a schedule that works for your pup’s age
• 1.c) Keep a potty training log that ensures your whole family is keeping your pup on a consistent schedule
• 1.d) Conduct potty breaks in a way that ensures your pup learns to ‘go’ quickly when you take them outside

1.a) POTTY TRAINING FLOW CHART:

Your pup’s potty training schedule should repeat this cycle of events throughout the day:

Note that during potty training, your puppy should only ever be in one of three situations:

• in their crate or pen resting
• on a supervised potty break
• enjoying some supervised free time, which can include any combo of a walk, yard time, indoor play time, and indoor tether/settle time.

1.b) FREQUENCY OF POTTY BREAKS BY AGE

*Meals can be fed at the end of a free time period, just before a crate time period.

**In addition to their regularly scheduled potty breaks, remember that puppies often need to pee or poop:

• Immediately after running around and playing
• Soon after taking a drink or eating a meal
• Immediately after waking up from a nap

1.c) DAILY PUPPY SCHEDULE LOG

Use the two charts above (Potty-Training Flow Chart & Frequency of Potty Breaks by Age chart) to create potty training schedule for your puppy. Then, use the daily puppy schedule log below to track your pup’s progress!

1.d) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL POTTY BREAKS

There are a few simple tricks you can use to avoid accidents and get your puppy to go quickly and consistently each time you take them out for a potty break:

• Don’t Dilly Dally. Take your puppy outside immediately after they come out of their crate or confinement area.
• Keep your puppy on a leash, even if you’re just going out in your backyard. This ensures you can keep a close eye on your puppy, AND it makes it easier for you to praise & reward them promptly when they do pee or poop.
• Stick to a small area. If you walk from place to place, your pup will constantly be distracted by new sights & smells, and it will take them longer to go potty. Wait until after they pee and poop, then praise and reward them with the chance to explore.
• Get ‘em moving. If your pup is on “poop strike”, try doing a quick little run-around with them in a small area; the activity can stimulate them to go.

KEY #2: PROVIDE PROPER SUPERVISION & CONFINEMENT AREAS

Providing proper supervision during free time AND setting up a designated confinement/rest area can mean the difference between a successful potty training program and an unsuccessful one. This section will provide you with simple guidelines to:

• 2.a) Structure free time in a way reduces the likelihood of accidents
• 2.b) Set up both short-term & medium-term confinement areas to reduce accidents, build bladder control, AND ensure your pup is getting the rest they need

2.a) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FREE TIME

Remember: based on the Potty Training Flow Chart, your pup is ALWAYS in one of three situations during potty training: in their crate/confinement area, on a potty break, or enjoying some free time. We have TWO simple rules to follow to ensure free time doesn’t become ‘free-for-all’ time:

1. Free time = supervised time; this means:

• • Your pup needs to be in the same room as you
  • You need to have two eyes on your puppy at all times when they are out for free time
  • Your pup should go in their crate or pen if you need to step outside even for just a minute

2. Free time = active play + tether time/settle time;
   • For many puppies, the ideal ratio of active play to settle time during free time is about 1:1
   • For example, if your 3-month-old puppy currently does about 45 minutes of free time before going into her crate for a nap, that free time might be split into 20 minutes of active play & training, then 20 minutes of quietly chewing on a bone next to you while on a tether
   • Providing a mix of both active play AND settle time ensures that:
     • your pup can actually hold it until the next potty break (remember, physical activity can stimulate them to need to go pee or poop)
     • your pup doesn’t inadvertently learn that free time = non-stop party time
     • your pup doesn’t become overstimulated, leading to increased mouthiness/nipping (if you are struggling with puppy nipping & biting, check out our guide to reducing puppy biting).

2.b) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SETTING UP CONFINEMENT AREAS

There are two types of confinement areas we use during potty training: a) a crate, and b) a pen or gated, puppy-proofed area. The crate and the pen serve different purposes. Most puppy owners find it easiest to have both options available, while other owners find they need only one or the other, based on their schedule and their individual puppy. Below are guidelines for when & how to use a crate vs. a pen during potty training:

1. The Crate.

• • What: a plastic or wire kennel designed to keep a dog or puppy safely & securely confined and out of trouble when an owner is not present.
  • Why: a crate can be helpful during potty training because, if sized correctly, it can encourage a pup to learn to hold their bladder at times when an owner may not be able to directly supervise the pup. This cuts down on potty accidents, thus speeding up potty training. As an added benefit, getting your pup comfortable in a crate means they won’t be stressed if they ever go to board at a vet’s office or kennel.
  • How: a crate should be large enough for a puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but not so large that the pup can comfortably create both a “potty area” and a “sleeping area” inside the crate. The crate can be made comfy by putting a fleece blanket or crate pad inside, along with a couple of toys and bones that are safe for the pup to have without direct supervision. Some pups find it easier to settle if a lightweight sheet is draped over the front of the crate. Just be sure to leave the backside uncovered to allow plenty of airflow.
  • When: a crate should be used for short term confinement only, never for longer than your pup is able to hold their bladder, and ideally, never more than 3-4 hours at a time (even if they can hold it longer than that).

When it Comes to the Crate, Don’t Overdo It. A crate is a really helpful training tool but be careful not to overuse it. Crates are small, confined spaces, and while they are perfectly okay to use for short periods of time throughout the day, we don’t want our pups to have to spend too much time in them.

2. The Pen or Gated Area

• • What: think of this as similar to a play pen for (human) babies. It is a safe, secure area where the pup can move around and play with toys when an owner is unable to directly supervise or is not present. But this pen has an indoor potty area in the form of a wee wee pad or litter box.
  • Why: a pen keeps your puppy safe & secure, just like a crate, when you are unable to supervise them. But, unlike a crate, a pen also provides your pup with access to a designated indoor spot to go potty
  • How: a pen or gated area should include a few things: the dog’s (open) crate with a comfy bed or blanket inside; a wee wee pad in a tray (to discourage chewing/tearing) or litter box; a bowl of fresh water, and several safe toys and bones. The pen/gate should be securely fixed in place and high enough that your pup can’t scale over it.
  • When: a pen can be used for medium-term confinement, when your puppy will need to wait longer than they are currently able to hold it, to receive a potty break. This ensures they are not soiling their crate/themselves, and they are still practicing going in an “approved” potty spot.
    • Examples: if your 2-month-old pup needs to go out for a potty break every 90 minutes, but you need to be out of the house for 2.5 hours, you can leave your puppy in their pen with access to a wee wee pad, instead of in their crate. Same goes for overnight: if your pup can only last about 6 hours overnight, but you need a solid 8 hrs to feel functional, have your pup sleep in a pen with a wee wee pad overnight until they get a little older.

Your Pen or Gated Area Can Replace Your Crate. As your pup ages, you can often ditch the crate entirely, and use the pen/gated area as your pup’s primary confinement area when they are left alone (until they are old enough to be trusted not to chew up your pillows and get into things that might harm them!). When you notice that your puppy is no longer making use of the wee wee pads during pen time, that’s a good cue that you can remove the pads altogether and swap out closed crate time for pen time.

KEY #3: USE A PATIENT, POSITIVE APPROACH

This is the shortest section in our potty training basics guide, but it is one of the most important! Why? Because it is a reminder that:

• 3.a) Your puppy is still a baby
• 3.b) Potty training is a process

3.a) Your Puppy is Still a Baby.

It is sometimes easy to forget just how young our pups are when we bring them home. But they really are just babies, still developing control over their bodily functions while they also attempt to learn how to navigate a new environment, new people, and whole new set of silly human rules. Stay positive. Reward and celebrate with your pup when they do the right thing. Stay calm and avoid scolding if they have an accident in the house – you want to remain a safe, trusted place for your pup to turn as they grow up.

3.b) Potty Training is a Process.

It takes time, and your progress will not be a straight line. Your puppy WILL have accidents in the house. Sometimes, it will be 100% your fault because you waited too long to take them out, you missed a clear signal that they were about to go, or your attention got diverted by life and your pup went without you noticing. Other times, you won’t know exactly why. Maybe your pup had a bigger drink than normal. Maybe they were just feeling a little bit yucky or extra sleepy, and they forgot themselves for a moment.

No matter the reason, just remember, this is normal! So long as you are doing your best to stick to the schedule, and so long as you are seeing a positive trend, you and your pull WILL be okay! Have patience, and look for progress, not perfection :).

One last reminder: there is additional help available!

The information in this guidebook is standardized advice that works for the majority of puppies. If you are following all of the guidelines enclosed here but you are still struggling, don’t worry! Some pups take a little longer to mature and develop bladder control. Some pups are nervous outside and thus are more likely to want to eliminate inside the home. And some pups are just plain tricky to potty train. If you are feeling frustrated, your primary care veterinarian and/or a professional trainer can provide you with support beyond what is outlined here, with guidance that is customized especially to your puppy and their individual needs.

Happy Training!

The post How to Potty Train Your Puppy appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Puppies. So soft and cute. So snuggly and playful. And sometimes, SO BITEY. While 99.5% of puppy biting isn’t meant to cause us harm, those needle-sharp teeth can still really hurt! It’s not surprising that puppy biting is a behavior many owners want to curb ASAP.

A certain amount of bitey, mouthy behavior is an expected part of puppyhood. But, there are some common reasons puppies display biting and mouthing behaviors beyond just normal puppy development. The good news? Once you know the reasons, there are some simple adjustments you can make to decrease those bitey behaviors AND help your puppy feel better at the same time. It’s a win-win!

Read on for 6 common reasons 8- to 20-week-old puppies sometimes act like pint-sized landsharks.

#1. They are TIRED

Being overtired is one of the most common reasons we see puppies exhibit overly bitey and nippy behavior. Young puppies need 16-18 hours of sleep each day. Much like a human baby or toddler, puppies get fussy and cranky when they are tired, but they don’t yet have enough self-awareness to recognize they need a nap to feel better.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Give your puppy scheduled rest periods and quiet times throughout the day
• If you have a very lively, active household, make sure your pup’s resting place – whether a a crate, an exercise pen, or a gated, puppy-proofed room – is in a quiet, low traffic spot where they won’t be constantly disturbed by household commotion.

#2. They are OVEREXCITED

Young puppies have not yet learned to regulate their emotional arousal. When then become overly excited or aroused, they start to lose inhibition and self-control, which leads to them getting extra bitey.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Imagine your pup’s excitability on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is totally calm and relaxed, and 10 is a full-on case of the puppy zoomies.
• When you see your pup’s excitement level creeping up to a 7 or 8 during play, help them learn to stop, take a breath, and calm down a bit.
• You can do this by modeling calm, relaxed behavior yourself: slow down your movements, blink your eyes softly, and stay quiet or speak only using low, slow tones.
• With practice, your pup will quickly learn to take their cues from you that it’s times to take a break and settle down.
• You can also practice playing “Go Wild & Freeze” with your pup, like Trainer Lauren is doing in this video with Camper Donnie:

#3. They are FRUSTRATED

Just as very young children may feel the desire to hit, slap, or kick when frustrated, young puppies will often use their teeth to display frustration and anger. It is easy to view frustrated biting as a puppy being obnoxious or “bratty.” But try to remember that frustration is a really icky emotion, and it is often born from feelings of confusion and/or lack of control about a situation.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• If you see your puppy becoming frustrated, first try to identify the source of frustration (for example, being restrained, being brushed, having a toy taken away, etc.).
• Then, recreate easier versions of that scenario, and reward your puppy for doing whatever it is you’d like them to do INSTEAD of biting and nipping. In the video below, Camper Gizmo learns to accept brushing without getting frustrated and mouthy.
• In addition, impulse control games are a great way to help your puppy learn more productive, socially appropriate ways to cope with feelings of frustration.

#4. Your actions say “BITE ME”

There are some things we humans do that are the equivalent of wearing a great big “Bite Me” sign on our backs! Here are a couple of common ones:

1. Sitting on the floor for prolonged periods of time with an excited, active puppy. Why? When you sit on the floor, you are likely to become a living, breathing climbing apparatus, complete with all kinds of fun knobs and doohickies on which to gnaw and pull: your nose, ears, hair, the strings on your sweatshirt, and more.
2. Making high-pitched squealing noises and quick, jerky movements. There is a reason puppy toys have squeakers . When we make high-pitched noises and quickly pull our hands away from a puppy, they instinctively respond with chasing and nipping.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Instead of sitting cross-legged on the floor, try sitting on your knees. This makes it easy for you to quickly straighten up and remove access to your lap if your pup becomes nippy.
• Avoid making too many squeal-y, overly excited sounds around your puppy (though a higher pitched “pup-pup-pup” or kissy noise is a great way to entice your puppy to come to you). And, keep your movements controlled. If your puppy nips at you, try freezing instead of jerking your hand away.

#5. They are saying “NO THANKS” to petting

Many puppies will become bitey or mouthy when you pet them for too long. Sometimes, this can be chalked up to the pup getting overstimulated from all the scritch-scratching, but many other times, your pup is asking you – in the best way they know how – to please give them a break.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

We don’t want puppies to learn that biting and nipping is an effective way to make human hands go away. Instead, we want to teach pups that they can say, “yes, please” or “no, thank you” to petting without having to use their teeth.

Try this:

• First, only pet your puppy when they are already calm and relaxed (remember reason #2 – overexcited puppies are more likely to be bitey).
• Pet your puppy for just 3-5 seconds at a time, then pause and take your hands away.
• If your pup nuzzles or moves toward your hand, pet them again. But, if they move away or just quietly lay in place, they are telling you they don’t really care about or want pets at that time.
• Over time, you can start to present your open hands to your pup as an invitation that asks, “Would you like some pets?” If they approach and curl into you, that’s a great big, “Yes please!” But if they don’t, they are saying “No thank you” in a manner that is far less painful than pointy puppy teeth. Watch the video below to learn petting do’s and don’ts that work for both puppies AND adult dogs:

#6. They are just being a PUPPY

Viewing the world as one big chew toy is a normal part of puppy development. Your puppy WILL sometimes try to chew on your fingers and nip your pant legs, even if they are not feeling sleepy, overstimulated, or frustrated.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Since your puppy IS going to bite/chew/gnaw on something, be sure to provide them with access to a variety of safe toys, chews, and bones in different textures. This makes it easy for them to make good choices when deciding where to put their needle-sharp teeth.
• In addition, providing the opportunity to play with other puppies is a great way to fulfill your puppy’s need to bite and mouth as part of play.

BONUS REASON: They have to POOP!

If your puppy suddenly becomes wild-eyed and starts zooming around, biting at your hands, feet, and clothes, they very well may have to go potty. We’re not sure exactly why, but many puppies get a little whacky right before the have to poop.

Want our handy “6 Reasons Your Puppy Is Biting You” infographic? Just right click and save the image below!

Happy Training!

The post 6 Reasons Your Puppy is Biting You appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

What is Tether Time?

Tether Time is a relaxation & settling exercise. During short periods of time (typically 10-30 minutes), your dog is tethered on ~3 feet of leash, with access to a comfy bed and a long-lasting chew – this is your Tether Station. The leash can be affixed to the leg of a heavy sofa, or to an eye-hook you install securely in the wall.

Rules of Engagement

1. Requires Adult Supervision. Tether Time is ALWAYS a supervised activity; dogs should never be left alone on a tether.
2. No Petting Allowed. Do not let anyone invade your dog’s personal space or pet them during Tether Time. The Tether Station is your dog’s own personal zen zone, no humans allowed. Why? If your dog becomes uncomfortable with an interaction while tethered, they are unable to move away and avoid that person’s attention.

How to Introduce Tether Time:

When introducing your dog to Tether Time, follow these steps to ensure it’s a low-stress, relaxing experience for both you and your dog:

For the first 4-6 repetitions, practice only during quiet, LOW DISTRACTION times. Make sure your dog has already received some mental stimulation and physical exercise, and they’ve recently eaten and had a chance to use the bathroom.

1. Invite your dog onto their bed and reward them with a treat. Attach the tether to their flat collar or harness. Then, provide them with a yummy bone or a favorite long-lasting chew.
2. Stay Close! Take a seat in a nearby chair so that you are just a few inches outside of your dog’s reach. Being on a tether is a new experience for some dogs; by staying nice and close, you are helping your dog feel secure that mom or dad is right there with them, and there’s nothing to be concerned about.
3. Ignore your dog while they are tethered. This is harder than it sounds, so try reading a book or checking emails on your phone. If your dog fusses a little or lets out a few barks, just continue focusing on your reading or your phone as if Tether Time is the most normal activity in the world.*
4. Untether your pup as soon as they finish their bone or chew, OR after 5 minutes (whichever comes first). When you remove the tether, do so unceremoniously – don’t make a big fuss or lather them in attention. They can choose to walk away from the Tether Station or hang out a little longer.

Make Tether Time a Part of Everyday Life

After 4-6 repetitions, you can start to gradually increase the length of time your dog stays on their tether. Try adding a minute each time you practice, until you reach 30 minutes. You can begin to sit a little farther away. Do this in small increments and watch for any signs that your dog is becoming more stressed (persistent pulling at the end of the tether, steady barking or yipping, or stress panting). That’s your cue to move back to a distance where your dog is more comfortable.

Start to occasionally get up and walk to the kitchen to grab a glass of water, or to another room to grab something, then return to your spot, all the while ignoring your dog. Practice at different times of day and under more distracting circumstances.

Before long, your dog will start to learn that Tether Time is a cue to settle in and get comfy, because nothing much is happening. It’s a great skill to use during (human) mealtimes, guest visits**, or whenever you feel like your dog is having trouble relaxing, even after their exercise and mental stimulation needs have been met.

Happy Training!

*If you have a dog who has separation-related anxiety issues, or other significant fear or anxiety issues, or if your dog becomes significantly frustrated or distressed during the initial stage of the exercises, please reach out to a certified dog behavior consultant for help before proceeding.

**If you have a dog who behaves fearfully or aggressively toward guests, Tether Time may not be an appropriate option during visits. Please contact a certified dog behavior consultant for help with an appropriate guest routine that focuses on helping your dog feel more relaxed and comfortable.

The post How-to: Use Tether Time to Teach Your Dog Settling Skills appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

How to Set Up & Use a Kong Staton for Overexcited Greeters:

Over time, you can skip Step 4 and just direct your dog to head straight to their bed or resting spot, then give them the Kong.

That’s all there is to it! This is an easy, effective, and fun way for your dog to learn to move AWAY from the door when people enter, and to engage themselves in a calm, four-paws-on-the-floor activity instead of jumping.

Another great alternative to help with dogs who LOVE to jump to say hello? The Treat Bomb. Learn more about this other simple, effective option here.

Happy Training!

*Why purchase so many Kongs or similar toys for your Kong Station? Because, at any given time, one will be under the couch, one will be in the dishwasher, and one will be in your backyard or your dog’s crate. Having multiples helps ensure that at least one has made its way back to the basket and is available for its intended use.

The post How-To: Using a Kong Station for Overexcited Greeters appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Sometimes, these behaviors are perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about (for example, your dog yelling at the overly enthusiastic dog in the dog park to stop mounting him). Other times, they’re a sign that you and your dog need some help. Try asking yourself the following questions about your dog’s aggressive behavior:

• Is the behavior new and completely out of character?
• Is it escalating in frequency and/or intensity?
• Does it present a potential danger to you, other people, or other dogs?
• Does it seem unpredictable?
• Do you regularly find yourself in unavoidable situations where your dog is likely to behave aggressively?
• Does your dog’s behavior activate your Spidey-senses and make you feel like something is just not right, even if you can’t exactly put your finger on it?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, read on. The following steps can help you get started along the path to a happier, safer, less stressful life for you and your dog:

Step 1: Get in the Judgement-Free zone by saying this: “It’s not all about how they’re raised.” Then say it again; “It’s not all about how they’re raised.” This is a myth that still persists throughout the dog community.

While it’s true that you are the path forward, it’s important to leave any feelings of guilt behind.

If you are struggling with this part, remember that your dog’s behavior is shaped by many things, including:

Learning History: Your dog is always learning; specifically, she is learning which behaviors are valuable (worth repeating) and which are not. Let’s consider a dog who develops the behavior of lunging and barking at other dogs while on leash walks. Why does it happen? Here’s one common example of how learning history comes into play:

In this example, your dog – let’s call him Freddie – is nervous of big dogs while on leash; he doesn’t lunge or bark or growl, but you’ve noticed he gets a little stiff during greetings. When on walks, the leash restricts Freddie’s option to move away from another dog if he feels uncertain (unlike when he is at daycare or at the dog park, where he is free to move away from dogs he doesn’t want to interact with).

One day, a big, friendly, rambunctious Great Dane puppy bounds up to Freddie on a walk and promptly jumps all over him; and for some reason – maybe because it’s rainy, maybe because he has a bit of an upset tummy, or maybe because this is the FOURTH TIME this Great Dane puppy has jumped all over him in the past week – Freddie gives a growl, and lunges toward the puppy. You swiftly move Freddie away from the puppy (obviously) and tell Freddie that his behavior is unacceptable! But in Freddie’s mind, something valuable just happened: “I lunged and barked, and that big scary puppy went away.”

Freddie tries out this potential new solution to his Big Dog Worries a few days later, except instead of waiting for a big dog to come within greeting distance, Freddie is proactive: he growls and lunges toward a large energetic dog who is walking by minding her business. Freddie’s lunging and barking has been reinforced (strengthened) because the dog keeps moving away (“Aha!” Freddie says, “I’m onto something!”).

Freddie continues to practice his new behavior more often, in more situations; his ‘solution’ is working, and so the behavior becomes more frequent over time. Within 3-6 months, Freddie is barking and lunging at almost all dogs while on-leash.

Whether you’re dealing with a Fearful Freddie, a Frustrated Frannie, or an Anxious Archie, it’s important to understand what your dog is getting from the aggressive behavior (e.g., I get to the keep the bone, I make the petting stop, I keep the mailman from murdering us all, etc.). If you are having trouble figuring out the function of your dog’s aggressive behavior, see Step 3 below.

Genetics: Yes, genetics play a role in behavior. In a nutshell, some dogs may be predisposed to being more anxious, or more fearful, or more easily frustrated, which can all potentially lead to unwanted aggressive behaviors. Remember, your dog is an individual and while we can influence behavior, dogs are still complex, autonomous living beings. Isn’t that why we love them?

Environment: This is a big one here in New York City. Frequently, we see dogs who had no aggression problems in the suburbs or rural area where they once lived, but the environmental pressures of the city (less space, more noise, more social interactions) can lead to a dog being more stressed in general, which can lead to the examples stated above.

We also sometimes see this when somebody moves from a less crowded neighborhood (somewhere quiet in Brooklyn) to a much more crowded neighborhood (the East Village in Manhattan).

Environment can also include lack of socialization during puppyhood (or improper socialization), or environments that aren’t suited for your particular dog (perhaps your dog is great at the dog park for 30 minutes but struggles when at day care for 8 hours).

Pain (and other medical issues): Yes, pain can be a major cause of aggression problems. This is especially important for dogs who may be acting differently than normal (behavior change came on quickly), are sick, or have a recent injury (or recovering from surgery like a spay or neuter).

It’s pretty easy to understand that being in pain can make one grumpy and agitated. This is one thing we always try to understand during a behavior consult, and frequently ask owners to check-in with their vet to make sure there is nothing medical that may be causing the problem.  You don’t always want to spend time and/or money on behavior modification if it’s really pain – or another underlying medical issue – causing the aggressive behavior (and many times, both health and behavior issues need to be addressed).

Step 2: Lower Your Risk  –  Now that you’re in the judgement-free zone , it’s time to immediately start taking action.

First, if your dog is breaking skin on people or dogs (or you think he or she has the potential to do so), the first thing you should do before doing anything else is muzzle training. By far, a muzzle is the most underrated and most underused tool in dog training; it can drastically lower liability risk and help keep the community and your dog safe.

Now, it’s fair to think that your dog won’t like it, and that she’ll look like the neighborhood Hannibal Lector. The good news is, your dog doesn’t know who Hannibal Lector is and you can make your dog enjoy wearing the muzzle! Frequently at Instinct, we call a muzzle a “hat” (and we always use properly fitting basket muzzles, such as Baskerville muzzles, that allow your dog to fully pant and breath, drink water and eat treats) and play fun games so that a dog seeks out the muzzle wants to put it on when its present.

There are many, many great resources out there on how to help your dog like wearing a muzzle. Our two favorites are:

The Muzzle Up Project

Chirag Patel’s Muzzle Training Video

When we see a dog who comes to a consult wearing a muzzle, our first thought is always “responsible owner.” There’s nothing to feel ashamed about, and many times it is the responsible thing to do. If you are feeling lonely about having to wear a muzzle, check out the cool community that the Muzzle Up Project has built on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheMuzzleUpProject/

Whether or not your dog requires a muzzle, it’s important to limit their exposure to what triggers the aggressive behavior until you get to Step 3 below. This may mean taking them on a walking route where you encounter fewer dogs or people, or putting them away when guests come over (if they have stranger danger when somebody comes to the house). If your dog is resource guarding (the aggressive behavior occurs when she has yummy food or toys), you may want to remove access to toys or special treats that cause the issue, or feed them in a different room if it happens with their food bowl.

This isn’t forever, but it will help limit risk until you can work with a professional.

Step 3: Find Professional Help

There are many things in dog training you can do yourself or at home by watching YouTube videos or joining dog training Facebook groups. However, aggression issues are best worked on with the help of a professional*.

If you have a skilled behavior professional near you, it’s a really good idea to reach out to that person. In fact, it’s always a good idea to talk to about 3 professionals in your area and go with the one that with whom you are most comfortable. No one trainer is best for everyone; find the person that makes you and your dog the most comfortable in terms of competence and how they treat you.

When you contact a behavior professional, remember that an experienced behavior consultant or trainer should have experience with your particular issue, focus on helping your dog (and you!) feel more relaxed and better able to cope with the situation, and should be able to give you a ballpark range of number of lessons or program pricing. This can change once they do the initial consult or as the program progresses, but experienced trainers can generally ask good questions on a brief, 5-10 minute phone call to let you know if they can help, or if you should be referred straight to Veterinary Behaviorist.

If you are unsure about who may be able to help you in your neighborhood, you can go here to find a professional:

The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior

If you can’t find a consultant in your area with the sites above, you can also try The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers

Find someone you like and book a consult!

*If your dog’s behavior has changed very suddenly, your first visit should be to your veterinarian, as sudden changes in behavior are often linked to an underlying medical issue.

Step 4: Follow Instructions, Follow-through and Enjoy the Process!

This is incredibly important. Regardless if you do private lessons, a group class, or a board & train program, the training will not work if you don’t follow through.

Your homework each day shouldn’t take more than 10-20 minutes, and many exercises can be worked into everyday life (on walks, or when guests come over, etc.). In our experience, consistency of practice is more important than perfection. Honestly, dogs are great at figuring out what we want as long as we’re consistent (even if it’s slightly different than what you were told). Do your best, keep your consultant or trainer in the loop if you have questions, but stay consistent. Remember: have fun! If you’re tired or frustrated, put down the treat pouch and come back later. Training shouldn’t feel like a chore.

The longer we train, the more we love the process. This is a great chance to bond with your dog, improve their welfare, and give them the many benefits that training provides (confidence, improved communication, trust, etc.).

If your behavior consultant or trainer recommends that you speak with a Veterinary Behaviorist or your Veterinarian about your dog’s behavior, and the vet or vet behaviorist recommends behavior medication, please keep an open mind. In the appropriate situation, medication in conjunction with behavior modification can be a huge game changer for some dogs, and can really improve the outcome, and welfare for your dog.

There are many medications out there, and some work extremely well for certain behavior issues. Certainly, be aware of potential side effects, but also be aware of what the potential benefits are for you and your dog as well. It’s amazing the difference brain chemistry can make, and sometimes it can be lifesaving.

Step 5: Remember: Life Doesn’t Have to be Perfect to be Good

Perfection from a training program (my dog will NEVER be aggressive again, or my dog will ALWAYS be friendly) is not realistic and will only lead to disappointment and frustration.

However, in the vast majority of cases, things should get much (much) better if you follow-through and have good guidance. There will be good days, bad days, GREAT days and TERRIBLE days. It’s ok. It’s normal and part of the process.

What you are looking for is a trend over time; you should notice that your dog is generally becoming more and more relaxed, and that there is a reduction in intensity and frequency of the undesired behaviors.

For many dogs, management of the behavior issue will be lifelong and always require some vigilance. However, with proper behavior modification and management, the situations that used to be really stressful for you and your dog should become easier, more predictable and feel routine.

Finally, remember that just because your dog may struggle with certain situations, it doesn’t make her or him “bad.” By taking responsibility for your dog’s behavior, keeping your dog and the community safe, and helping both you and your dog become less stressed and more confident over time, I promise life will still be very good (and your dog will teach you many things that you wouldn’t have learned otherwise).

Brian Burton, CDBC KPA-CTP

Dedicated to our leash reactive Rat Terrier Mix who taught us how to be a better listener, more patient and more kind.

Sammy: 2009 – 2015

The post Aggressive Dog? 5 Steps To Get You Started appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

If you’re like most dog owners we meet, you care a LOT about your dog’s happiness and wellbeing. That’s awesome! But do you know for sure if your city dog is living the good life, by her standards?

Animal Welfare Science & The Five Freedoms: 

Animal welfare is a scientific field focused on assessing whether captive and companion animals are experiencing a good or poor quality of life, based on measures of the animal’s health, behavior, and emotional state. One common framework used to assess animal welfare is the Five Freedoms.

The first four freedoms are pretty straightforward. They don’t mean to suggest that your dog should never feel anxious or afraid, or that they can never get sick or have a grumbly tummy because dinner is served late (your dog may disagree with that last one!). Rather, they simply mean that your dog should not be in a chronic state of fear, distress, discomfort, etc.

But what about the fifth freedom, the freedom to express natural behavior? Let’s face it: city dogs have a lot of restrictions placed on their behavior. Too often, Very Important Dog Activities (VIDAs) like sniffing, digging, running, barking, chasing small fluffy critters, being able to move away from scary things, and laying about in the sunshine, are thwarted by short leashes, strange dogs, crowded streets, overly friendly strangers, and long days home alone. What’s a dog owner to do?

Good Welfare for City Dogs: How-To

Before you sublet your apartment, quit your job, and look for an idyllic house in the country for your best furry friend, try these 3 simple suggestions to provide your city dog with ample opportunities to engage in critically important natural dog behaviors.

1. Let them Sniff! If we had to pick ONE activity to maximize welfare for city dogs, it would be the opportunity to explore a naturally landscaped environment at their own pace.

How to do it: 3-5 times per week, hit up one of your city’s large parks (or, even better, a nearby hiking trail), and let your dog take you on an adventure*. We like to kick off these walks with a cue, such as “Go Sniff!” so the dog knows this is his time to explore and have fun. Allow your dog to navigate the environment at his own pace (even if he’s a smell-obsessed hound mix who is compelled to spend 10 minutes carefully examining every inch of a seemingly innocuous rock or tree stump).

*This is a fantastic activity to do off-leash, IF the area is safe and allows off-leash dogs, and if your dog is social with other dogs and people, and responds reliably to your cues. Otherwise, try using a longer leash for these walks to allow for good freedom of movement.

2. Find out which activity your dog LOVES, and do more of it, in a setting where your dog feels comfortable.

This sounds simple enough, but city dogs are often asked to engage in activities they don’t particularly love, in settings they aren’t particularly thrilled about. A great example is the well-meaning owner who takes their dog to the dog park every day to play fetch; the dog loves fetch but doesn’t particularly like being around other dogs (in fact, she sometimes gets in scuffles at the park when another dog approaches to try to get in on the game of fetch), but the owner doesn’t know where else to go to let the dog off-leash to play.

How to do it:

• Ball-crazy dog? Play fetch in your apartment, tossing ball or soft toy down your hallway or into another room; or, take your dog to a quiet area of a local park on a long line, at a time when there are no other dogs around.
• Squirrel-crazy dog? Purchase a Flirt Pole and play with your dog inside, or outside in a quiet area of a local park on a long line, when there are no other dogs around.
• Sniff-crazy dog? These dogs LOVE activity #1, above, but you can also play scent games inside, or take them to a local park and scatter some treats on the grass for them to find.
• Dog-lovin’ dog? Dog parks can be difficult environments for a lot of dogs. If you choose to go, do so at times when it’s less busy, and when you can first observe the other dogs and determine whether the group dynamics and play styles are suitable for your dog. Other great options: meet up with a dog-owning friend and take your dogs for a walk together; or, find a well-run daycare and send your dog for a ½ day, 1-2 times per week (not all dogs are suitable for daycare; typically, younger, more social dogs tend to enjoy it most).
• People-lovin’ dog? Take your dog to the pet store, the hardware store, the bank, or to hang out with you on a bench at a local park. For dogs who truly enjoy meeting and interacting with new people, these are great places to find folks who are eager to say hello to your pup and make them feel extra-special.
• Forrest Gump dog? If your dog LOVES to run, find a way to let her do it on a regular basis. Take up jogging, find a Dog Runner, or go to the park and practice repetitions of Stay/Come on a long line (this will give your dog a chance to sprint toward you as fast as they can, and you’ll get to practice two important life skills!).
• Lazy-bones dog? Find a comfy spot in the grass, or on a bench, at your local park, and enjoy some quality lounging time together.
• Water dog? Most cities have one or more dog beaches; if your dog doesn’t enjoy mingling with lots of strange dogs, you can look for spots like NYC’s Water4Dogs, to give your dog opportunities to splash in private.

3. Take note of what your dog doesn’t like, and help them avoid it

This is an important one. It’s tempting to think of the freedom to engage in natural behaviors as synonymous with the ability to do things that are fun and enjoyable (case in point, all the activities listed in #2, above). And that’s true, but it also includes the ability to engage in natural avoidance behaviors. For example, your dog may dislike saying hello to other dogs on-leash; the leash can make it very difficult for a dog to successfully engage in natural avoidance behaviors, unless we as owners know what to look for, and how to help.

How to do it:

• First, brush up on dog body language, including more subtle signals of stress/avoidance. This is a great video reviewing some of the more subtle signs of stress in dogs:

• Next, start watching your dog when out on a walk. Take note of the situations that seem to make him more uncomfortable, and help him out by providing some additional distance from those stressful stimuli.* One simple technique to use in the city is the Arc-By, whereby an owner arcs AWAY from the scary stimuli as they pass, providing their dog with more space and allowing them to avoid an unwanted interaction:

*There are lots of things we can do, through training & behavior modification, to help dogs feel more comfortable in situations that currently make them feel anxious or fearful, but it’s still critically important to listen to their cues and help them avoid/move away from uncomfortable situations as they go through the training process.

If you’re interested in learning more about animal welfare science, consider signing up for the awesome free course provided by Coursera.

Happy Training!

-Sarah Fraser, CDBC, KPA-CTP, CPDT-KA

Co-Founder

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