What would dog training look like if every dog owner had access to simple, practical resources that helped them understand their dog’s natural instincts, innate drives, and individual behavior needs?

What kinds of results could we help owners achieve if our training programs focused less on teaching “obedience”, and more on establishing healthy relationships, creating dog-smart environments, and implementing practical wellness routines that worked with each dog’s individual nature?

Nature-Driven Nurture by INSTINCT®

We are thrilled to announce the upcoming rollout of Nature-Driven Nurture, the revolutionary new approach to dog parenting and canine behavioral health support that works with a dog’s natural instincts and individual behavior needs.

Rooted in ethology and behavior science, Nature-Driven Nurture provides dog owners with a practical roadmap for raising, caring for, and training their canine family members. The approach was developed by Instinct’s team of certified behavior consultants and board-certified veterinary behaviorists. It reflects our best practices for collaborative coaching and canine behavioral health assessment & support – refined over tens of thousands of hours of hands-on training, behavior work, and academic study – boiled down into an effective, intuitive dog parenting methodology that is as relevant to owners raising a new puppy as it is to those navigating complex behavior issues with an adult dog.

Courses. Coaching. Community. Care.

Nature-Driven Nurture programming will roll out to Instinct clients over a three-month span covering January through March 2022. Programs will utilize a powerful multimodal learning model that includes individualized coaching, self-paced online courses, community support, and behavioral health-focused care services. The various program elements are designed to integrate seamlessly with Instinct’s current canine behavioral health focus, collaborative coaching model, and alumni support services, and to build upon our industry-leading canine behavioral health assessment tool, launched in May 2021.

By 2023, Instinct intends to weave machine learning and AI into Nature-Driven Nurture program design decisions, turning the data collected via its behavioral health assessment tool into powerful knowledge that can help to more accurately assess areas of risk and create optimal training & care plans for individual dogs and families.

Better Results. Stronger Relationships. Happier Dogs.

Nature-Driven Nurture helps dog owners achieve lasting, positive results where traditional dog training programs fall short, thanks to the method’s multidisciplinary focus on biology, health & wellness, environment, relationship dynamics, and learning experiences. Owners who use Nature-Driven Nurture experience a deeper level of connection, joy, and understanding with their dogs. And their dogs are happier, more fulfilled, more confident companions.

Instinct®, Instinct Dog Behavior & Training®, and the Instinct® dog logo are US Registered Trademarks. Instinct® is in the process of filing a registered trademark application for Nature-Driven Nurture with the United States Patent & Trademark Office.

The post Coming Soon: NATURE-DRIVEN NURTURE™ appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Your puppy is growing up! As puppies enter early adolescence, it is important to understand that – just like human teenagers – their behavior will naturally change and develop, particularly when it comes to play with other dogs; listening skills & manners; and conflict resolution strategies.

Let’s take a closer look at how our pups’ needs change in each of these important areas.

I. PLAY WITH OTHER DOGS

Playtime with other dogs can be an important social activity for dogs at every stage of their life. However, our dogs’ socialization needs change over time, and adolescence is no exception! The socialization experiences our dogs have during adolescence can have a lasting impact on their long-term outlook on dog-dog play.

Here’s what you should know about dog-dog play during early adolescence:

1. Other Dogs May Start to Treat Your Pup Differently

Between 5-6 months, your pup’s “Puppy Pass” expires. Dogs will begin to hold your puppy to a more adult standard of appropriateness when it comes to dog-dog interactions.

What does this mean?

• Typical puppy behaviors – biting at tails, ears and cheeks; placing paws up on other dogs’ shoulders; recklessly running into others; lots of muzzle licking, etc. – that were previously tolerated by adult dogs may now elicit a mild or moderate correction instead.
• These corrections can be scary to still-young pups who are left wondering why other dogs are suddenly taking offense to their super-cool puppy play moves.

2. Your Puppy May Start to Engage with Other Dogs Differently

Young adolescents may start to test the boundaries of appropriateness when interacting with other dogs. They can experiment with rude and impolite behaviors, and they often miss or ignore more subtle communication signals from other dogs asking them to tone it down.

What does this mean?

• It is important to choose play partners carefully during adolescence. Pups need to learn boundaries for polite play to avoid developing bullying tendencies, but they are also still young, sensitive, and highly impressionable.

Tips for Navigating Dog-Dog Play Sessions During Early Adolescence

There are some simple guidelines you can follow to set your young adolescent dog up for success during dog-dog play:

• Learn to read dog body language during play, so you can identify when your dog (or their playmate) needs a break, when things are getting out of hand, and when everyone is having a good time.
• Teach your dog a solid recall cue so you can call them out of dicey situations.
• Choose the right playmates:
  • Other adolescent pups of similar size and play style
  • Patient, socially savvy adult dogs who enjoy play and set clear boundaries through fair, appropriate feedback
• Avoid the wrong playmates:
  • Baby puppies aged 8-16 weeks are generally not well-suited to play with young adolescent dogs, as the “teenagers” can slip into bullying behaviors and overwhelm young pups. Exceptions include shy and very mild mild-mannered adolescents.
  • Stay away from adult dogs who are quick to give overly harsh corrections, especially if they are larger than your adolescent pup. Remember, your puppy is still young and impressionable; regular exposure to adult dogs who respond to careless play with inappropriate levels of aggression can leave your pup with lasting feelings of insecurity and uncertainty about interacting with other dogs.
• Opt for 1-on-1 play sessions, or a small, well-matched group.
• Start with a calm, low-arousal activity like a parallel walk or some training practice, before starting playtime. High arousal levels equal a higher likelihood of poor decisions and altercations.
• Keep play sessions relatively short, about 25-45 minutes. Any longer than that, and dogs typically start to run low on self-control, making them more likely to make poor decisions.

II. LISTENING SKILLS & MANNERS

As pups enter adolescence, they can become less responsive to known obedience cues and seem to suddenly forget their manners (sound familiar, parents of human tweens and teens?!). It is important to remember that your dog isn’t purposefully trying to be bad or to aggravate you. They are going through a totally normal – if sometimes frustrating – phase of their development.

What does this mean?

1. It’s Time to Train!

Now is the time to double-down on daily positive reinforcement-based training that focuses on fun, engagement, cooperation, and trust.

• Your puppy is growing up! It is natural that they want to broaden their horizons, exercise their independence, and experiment with new behaviors.
• Choose playful, positive reinforcement-based training that fosters a dynamic in which your growing pup genuinely enjoys listening to and engaging with you, and trusts that you are ALWAYS a safe place to turn as they explore their independence.
• KEEP IT POSITIVE! Resist the urge to turn to harsher, more aversive training techniques in an attempt to shut down these sometimes -obnoxious teenage behaviors. You’ll run the risk of destroying your pup’s trust in you as a safe place to turn while they figure out the world around them, and you can inadvertently create more serious, long-lasting behavior issues in the process.

2. It’s Time to Manage the Situation!

It is normal to need to make some temporary adjustments to your environment and routine, to temporarily scale back on certain freedoms and add in safety & management measures, in order to set your pup up for success during early adolescence. Here are some common examples:

• Owners often need to utilize a long line during off-leash time for a little while, to ensure their pup’s recall stays reliable during adolescence.
• Adolescent dogs are LARGER than puppies, and their cognitive abilities are increasing, too. It is common to use a gate to keep your adolescent pup out of the kitchen to prevent them from discovering the joys of counter-surfing and trashcan-raiding.

III. CONFLICT RESOLUTION STRATEGIES

As our puppies transition into adolescence, they may begin to experiment with solving problems in a more adult manner. Sometimes, these new behaviors are just temporary blips that are a normal part of development, and are nothing to be concerned about. Other times, they are an important signal that our pups need help with confidence building and coping skills to ensure these new behaviors don’t turn into longer term behavior issues.

What to Watch for:

• Puppies who displayed fearful or cautious behavior around certain people, dogs or objects may now begin to display more proactive distance-increasing behaviors – lunging, snapping, barking – toward those concerning triggers.
• Puppies who displayed overly submissive body language or appeasement behavior when meeting other dogs (e.g., immediately rolling over and exposing their belly/groin, excessively licking other dogs’ muzzles, etc.) may experiment with more forward communication signals that indicate their discomfort and desire for space. Growling, raising a lip, snapping, and lunging are all new tactics that may be utilized to ask the other dog to move away.

It is a great idea to work with a skilled trainer or behavior consultant during this important phase of your pup’s life, so you can identify which behavior changes are a normal part of development, and which should be addressed with specific behavior modification efforts.

RECAP: UNDERSTANDING CHANGING BEHAVIOR NEEDS DURING EARLY ADOLESCENCE

Remember, changes in behavior are NORMAL as your dog progresses through different stages of development. Here are three common changes that may occur during early adolescence:

1. Your dog’s behavior around other dogs may change during adolescence. Providing opportunities for safe, healthy play with appropriate play partners is important.
2. Your dog’s responsiveness to obedience skills may change, and you may see a regression in manners. Don’t panic! Implement daily positive reinforcement-based training that focuses on fun and engagement.
3. Your dog’s conflict resolution strategies may change, and they may experiment with more proactive behaviors to create space for themselves. Work with a trainer to determine whether these changes are a normal part of development, or something that should be addressed via behavior modification.

Learn More about Canine Adolescence

Check out Canine “Teenagers”, a seriously awesome episode of our podcast, DogLab, featuring Dr. Naomi Harvey of Dogs Trust. Dr. Harvey discusses her recent (fascinating) research on canine adolescence and provides a ton of helpful info and advice on helping owners navigate through this phase of development in a positive manner.

Feeling Overwhelmed?

Adolescence is different for every dog, with some presenting more challenging issues and behaviors than others. Hang in there! There is help available. Reach out to us at Instinct, or find a certified dog behavior consultant near you via www.iaabc.org.

The post Canine Teenagers: Navigating Early Adolescence with Your Growing Pup appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Potty training a puppy takes effort and consistency, but it is generally a fairly straightforward process if you follow some simple rules and guidelines.

KEY #1: MAINTAIN A PREDICTABLE SCHEDULE

Maintaining a consistent, predictable schedule helps your puppy get into the routine of potty training and makes it easier for them to build good habits. In this section, we’ll review how to:

• 1.a) Follow the Potty Training Flow Chart
• 1.b) Set up a schedule that works for your pup’s age
• 1.c) Keep a potty training log that ensures your whole family is keeping your pup on a consistent schedule
• 1.d) Conduct potty breaks in a way that ensures your pup learns to ‘go’ quickly when you take them outside

1.a) POTTY TRAINING FLOW CHART:

Your pup’s potty training schedule should repeat this cycle of events throughout the day:

Note that during potty training, your puppy should only ever be in one of three situations:

• in their crate or pen resting
• on a supervised potty break
• enjoying some supervised free time, which can include any combo of a walk, yard time, indoor play time, and indoor tether/settle time.

1.b) FREQUENCY OF POTTY BREAKS BY AGE

*Meals can be fed at the end of a free time period, just before a crate time period.

**In addition to their regularly scheduled potty breaks, remember that puppies often need to pee or poop:

• Immediately after running around and playing
• Soon after taking a drink or eating a meal
• Immediately after waking up from a nap

1.c) DAILY PUPPY SCHEDULE LOG

Use the two charts above (Potty-Training Flow Chart & Frequency of Potty Breaks by Age chart) to create potty training schedule for your puppy. Then, use the daily puppy schedule log below to track your pup’s progress!

1.d) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL POTTY BREAKS

There are a few simple tricks you can use to avoid accidents and get your puppy to go quickly and consistently each time you take them out for a potty break:

• Don’t Dilly Dally. Take your puppy outside immediately after they come out of their crate or confinement area.
• Keep your puppy on a leash, even if you’re just going out in your backyard. This ensures you can keep a close eye on your puppy, AND it makes it easier for you to praise & reward them promptly when they do pee or poop.
• Stick to a small area. If you walk from place to place, your pup will constantly be distracted by new sights & smells, and it will take them longer to go potty. Wait until after they pee and poop, then praise and reward them with the chance to explore.
• Get ‘em moving. If your pup is on “poop strike”, try doing a quick little run-around with them in a small area; the activity can stimulate them to go.

KEY #2: PROVIDE PROPER SUPERVISION & CONFINEMENT AREAS

Providing proper supervision during free time AND setting up a designated confinement/rest area can mean the difference between a successful potty training program and an unsuccessful one. This section will provide you with simple guidelines to:

• 2.a) Structure free time in a way reduces the likelihood of accidents
• 2.b) Set up both short-term & medium-term confinement areas to reduce accidents, build bladder control, AND ensure your pup is getting the rest they need

2.a) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FREE TIME

Remember: based on the Potty Training Flow Chart, your pup is ALWAYS in one of three situations during potty training: in their crate/confinement area, on a potty break, or enjoying some free time. We have TWO simple rules to follow to ensure free time doesn’t become ‘free-for-all’ time:

1. Free time = supervised time; this means:

• • Your pup needs to be in the same room as you
  • You need to have two eyes on your puppy at all times when they are out for free time
  • Your pup should go in their crate or pen if you need to step outside even for just a minute

2. Free time = active play + tether time/settle time;
   • For many puppies, the ideal ratio of active play to settle time during free time is about 1:1
   • For example, if your 3-month-old puppy currently does about 45 minutes of free time before going into her crate for a nap, that free time might be split into 20 minutes of active play & training, then 20 minutes of quietly chewing on a bone next to you while on a tether
   • Providing a mix of both active play AND settle time ensures that:
     • your pup can actually hold it until the next potty break (remember, physical activity can stimulate them to need to go pee or poop)
     • your pup doesn’t inadvertently learn that free time = non-stop party time
     • your pup doesn’t become overstimulated, leading to increased mouthiness/nipping (if you are struggling with puppy nipping & biting, check out our guide to reducing puppy biting).

2.b) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SETTING UP CONFINEMENT AREAS

There are two types of confinement areas we use during potty training: a) a crate, and b) a pen or gated, puppy-proofed area. The crate and the pen serve different purposes. Most puppy owners find it easiest to have both options available, while other owners find they need only one or the other, based on their schedule and their individual puppy. Below are guidelines for when & how to use a crate vs. a pen during potty training:

1. The Crate.

• • What: a plastic or wire kennel designed to keep a dog or puppy safely & securely confined and out of trouble when an owner is not present.
  • Why: a crate can be helpful during potty training because, if sized correctly, it can encourage a pup to learn to hold their bladder at times when an owner may not be able to directly supervise the pup. This cuts down on potty accidents, thus speeding up potty training. As an added benefit, getting your pup comfortable in a crate means they won’t be stressed if they ever go to board at a vet’s office or kennel.
  • How: a crate should be large enough for a puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but not so large that the pup can comfortably create both a “potty area” and a “sleeping area” inside the crate. The crate can be made comfy by putting a fleece blanket or crate pad inside, along with a couple of toys and bones that are safe for the pup to have without direct supervision. Some pups find it easier to settle if a lightweight sheet is draped over the front of the crate. Just be sure to leave the backside uncovered to allow plenty of airflow.
  • When: a crate should be used for short term confinement only, never for longer than your pup is able to hold their bladder, and ideally, never more than 3-4 hours at a time (even if they can hold it longer than that).

When it Comes to the Crate, Don’t Overdo It. A crate is a really helpful training tool but be careful not to overuse it. Crates are small, confined spaces, and while they are perfectly okay to use for short periods of time throughout the day, we don’t want our pups to have to spend too much time in them.

2. The Pen or Gated Area

• • What: think of this as similar to a play pen for (human) babies. It is a safe, secure area where the pup can move around and play with toys when an owner is unable to directly supervise or is not present. But this pen has an indoor potty area in the form of a wee wee pad or litter box.
  • Why: a pen keeps your puppy safe & secure, just like a crate, when you are unable to supervise them. But, unlike a crate, a pen also provides your pup with access to a designated indoor spot to go potty
  • How: a pen or gated area should include a few things: the dog’s (open) crate with a comfy bed or blanket inside; a wee wee pad in a tray (to discourage chewing/tearing) or litter box; a bowl of fresh water, and several safe toys and bones. The pen/gate should be securely fixed in place and high enough that your pup can’t scale over it.
  • When: a pen can be used for medium-term confinement, when your puppy will need to wait longer than they are currently able to hold it, to receive a potty break. This ensures they are not soiling their crate/themselves, and they are still practicing going in an “approved” potty spot.
    • Examples: if your 2-month-old pup needs to go out for a potty break every 90 minutes, but you need to be out of the house for 2.5 hours, you can leave your puppy in their pen with access to a wee wee pad, instead of in their crate. Same goes for overnight: if your pup can only last about 6 hours overnight, but you need a solid 8 hrs to feel functional, have your pup sleep in a pen with a wee wee pad overnight until they get a little older.

Your Pen or Gated Area Can Replace Your Crate. As your pup ages, you can often ditch the crate entirely, and use the pen/gated area as your pup’s primary confinement area when they are left alone (until they are old enough to be trusted not to chew up your pillows and get into things that might harm them!). When you notice that your puppy is no longer making use of the wee wee pads during pen time, that’s a good cue that you can remove the pads altogether and swap out closed crate time for pen time.

KEY #3: USE A PATIENT, POSITIVE APPROACH

This is the shortest section in our potty training basics guide, but it is one of the most important! Why? Because it is a reminder that:

• 3.a) Your puppy is still a baby
• 3.b) Potty training is a process

3.a) Your Puppy is Still a Baby.

It is sometimes easy to forget just how young our pups are when we bring them home. But they really are just babies, still developing control over their bodily functions while they also attempt to learn how to navigate a new environment, new people, and whole new set of silly human rules. Stay positive. Reward and celebrate with your pup when they do the right thing. Stay calm and avoid scolding if they have an accident in the house – you want to remain a safe, trusted place for your pup to turn as they grow up.

3.b) Potty Training is a Process.

It takes time, and your progress will not be a straight line. Your puppy WILL have accidents in the house. Sometimes, it will be 100% your fault because you waited too long to take them out, you missed a clear signal that they were about to go, or your attention got diverted by life and your pup went without you noticing. Other times, you won’t know exactly why. Maybe your pup had a bigger drink than normal. Maybe they were just feeling a little bit yucky or extra sleepy, and they forgot themselves for a moment.

No matter the reason, just remember, this is normal! So long as you are doing your best to stick to the schedule, and so long as you are seeing a positive trend, you and your pull WILL be okay! Have patience, and look for progress, not perfection :).

One last reminder: there is additional help available!

The information in this guidebook is standardized advice that works for the majority of puppies. If you are following all of the guidelines enclosed here but you are still struggling, don’t worry! Some pups take a little longer to mature and develop bladder control. Some pups are nervous outside and thus are more likely to want to eliminate inside the home. And some pups are just plain tricky to potty train. If you are feeling frustrated, your primary care veterinarian and/or a professional trainer can provide you with support beyond what is outlined here, with guidance that is customized especially to your puppy and their individual needs.

Happy Training!

The post How to Potty Train Your Puppy appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Puppies. So soft and cute. So snuggly and playful. And sometimes, SO BITEY. While 99.5% of puppy biting isn’t meant to cause us harm, those needle-sharp teeth can still really hurt! It’s not surprising that puppy biting is a behavior many owners want to curb ASAP.

A certain amount of bitey, mouthy behavior is an expected part of puppyhood. But, there are some common reasons puppies display biting and mouthing behaviors beyond just normal puppy development. The good news? Once you know the reasons, there are some simple adjustments you can make to decrease those bitey behaviors AND help your puppy feel better at the same time. It’s a win-win!

Read on for 6 common reasons 8- to 20-week-old puppies sometimes act like pint-sized landsharks.

#1. They are TIRED

Being overtired is one of the most common reasons we see puppies exhibit overly bitey and nippy behavior. Young puppies need 16-18 hours of sleep each day. Much like a human baby or toddler, puppies get fussy and cranky when they are tired, but they don’t yet have enough self-awareness to recognize they need a nap to feel better.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Give your puppy scheduled rest periods and quiet times throughout the day
• If you have a very lively, active household, make sure your pup’s resting place – whether a a crate, an exercise pen, or a gated, puppy-proofed room – is in a quiet, low traffic spot where they won’t be constantly disturbed by household commotion.

#2. They are OVEREXCITED

Young puppies have not yet learned to regulate their emotional arousal. When then become overly excited or aroused, they start to lose inhibition and self-control, which leads to them getting extra bitey.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Imagine your pup’s excitability on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is totally calm and relaxed, and 10 is a full-on case of the puppy zoomies.
• When you see your pup’s excitement level creeping up to a 7 or 8 during play, help them learn to stop, take a breath, and calm down a bit.
• You can do this by modeling calm, relaxed behavior yourself: slow down your movements, blink your eyes softly, and stay quiet or speak only using low, slow tones.
• With practice, your pup will quickly learn to take their cues from you that it’s times to take a break and settle down.
• You can also practice playing “Go Wild & Freeze” with your pup, like Trainer Lauren is doing in this video with Camper Donnie:

#3. They are FRUSTRATED

Just as very young children may feel the desire to hit, slap, or kick when frustrated, young puppies will often use their teeth to display frustration and anger. It is easy to view frustrated biting as a puppy being obnoxious or “bratty.” But try to remember that frustration is a really icky emotion, and it is often born from feelings of confusion and/or lack of control about a situation.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• If you see your puppy becoming frustrated, first try to identify the source of frustration (for example, being restrained, being brushed, having a toy taken away, etc.).
• Then, recreate easier versions of that scenario, and reward your puppy for doing whatever it is you’d like them to do INSTEAD of biting and nipping. In the video below, Camper Gizmo learns to accept brushing without getting frustrated and mouthy.
• In addition, impulse control games are a great way to help your puppy learn more productive, socially appropriate ways to cope with feelings of frustration.

#4. Your actions say “BITE ME”

There are some things we humans do that are the equivalent of wearing a great big “Bite Me” sign on our backs! Here are a couple of common ones:

1. Sitting on the floor for prolonged periods of time with an excited, active puppy. Why? When you sit on the floor, you are likely to become a living, breathing climbing apparatus, complete with all kinds of fun knobs and doohickies on which to gnaw and pull: your nose, ears, hair, the strings on your sweatshirt, and more.
2. Making high-pitched squealing noises and quick, jerky movements. There is a reason puppy toys have squeakers . When we make high-pitched noises and quickly pull our hands away from a puppy, they instinctively respond with chasing and nipping.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Instead of sitting cross-legged on the floor, try sitting on your knees. This makes it easy for you to quickly straighten up and remove access to your lap if your pup becomes nippy.
• Avoid making too many squeal-y, overly excited sounds around your puppy (though a higher pitched “pup-pup-pup” or kissy noise is a great way to entice your puppy to come to you). And, keep your movements controlled. If your puppy nips at you, try freezing instead of jerking your hand away.

#5. They are saying “NO THANKS” to petting

Many puppies will become bitey or mouthy when you pet them for too long. Sometimes, this can be chalked up to the pup getting overstimulated from all the scritch-scratching, but many other times, your pup is asking you – in the best way they know how – to please give them a break.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

We don’t want puppies to learn that biting and nipping is an effective way to make human hands go away. Instead, we want to teach pups that they can say, “yes, please” or “no, thank you” to petting without having to use their teeth.

Try this:

• First, only pet your puppy when they are already calm and relaxed (remember reason #2 – overexcited puppies are more likely to be bitey).
• Pet your puppy for just 3-5 seconds at a time, then pause and take your hands away.
• If your pup nuzzles or moves toward your hand, pet them again. But, if they move away or just quietly lay in place, they are telling you they don’t really care about or want pets at that time.
• Over time, you can start to present your open hands to your pup as an invitation that asks, “Would you like some pets?” If they approach and curl into you, that’s a great big, “Yes please!” But if they don’t, they are saying “No thank you” in a manner that is far less painful than pointy puppy teeth. Watch the video below to learn petting do’s and don’ts that work for both puppies AND adult dogs:

#6. They are just being a PUPPY

Viewing the world as one big chew toy is a normal part of puppy development. Your puppy WILL sometimes try to chew on your fingers and nip your pant legs, even if they are not feeling sleepy, overstimulated, or frustrated.

How You Can Help Your Puppy:

• Since your puppy IS going to bite/chew/gnaw on something, be sure to provide them with access to a variety of safe toys, chews, and bones in different textures. This makes it easy for them to make good choices when deciding where to put their needle-sharp teeth.
• In addition, providing the opportunity to play with other puppies is a great way to fulfill your puppy’s need to bite and mouth as part of play.

BONUS REASON: They have to POOP!

If your puppy suddenly becomes wild-eyed and starts zooming around, biting at your hands, feet, and clothes, they very well may have to go potty. We’re not sure exactly why, but many puppies get a little whacky right before the have to poop.

Want our handy “6 Reasons Your Puppy Is Biting You” infographic? Just right click and save the image below!

Happy Training!

The post 6 Reasons Your Puppy is Biting You appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

If you’re working on a behavior modification plan to help your dog with fear, anxiety, or aggression issues, chances are you’ve pondered (or asked your trainer) at least one of the following questions along the way:

• Is all this “management” really necessary right now? Aren’t we just avoiding the issue?
• How do these exercises relate to the problems we’re having?
• Shouldn’t I maybe test out some trickier scenarios, just to see how my dog does?
• How long are we going to be working on this? Will we ever really be finished?

Those are totally understandable questions. Behavior modification is a foreign process to most of us; as a society, we’re generally far more knowledgeable about the treatment of physical health issues than we are about the treatment of behavioral and emotional ones.

As luck would have it, the process of working through a behavior modification program with your dog shares some similarities to going through the recovery process for a physical health issue, like an injury.

Let’s consider these two theoretical scenarios, one a physical injury, and one a behavior issue:

#1. PHYSICAL INJURY: Mary Sprains Her Ankle

Mary is a cross-country runner. During a race, she rolls her ankle while navigating a rocky trail. She’d been experiencing some low-level ankle pain for a while, but this SERIOUSLY hurts. She hobbles into a hospital emergency room grimacing in pain. She is examined by the doctor, receives x-rays, and is diagnosed with a badly sprained ankle.

#2. BEHAVIOR ISSUE: Fluffy is Displaying Dog-Directed Aggression & Reactivity

Over the past year, Fluffy the dog has started getting in fights at the dog park and displaying increasing levels of reactivity toward dogs on walks. Fluffy is actively scanning for other dogs on walks; reactions are intense, and she takes a long time to recover after a blow-up. A behavior consultant meets with the owner, Sam, and determines Fluffy’s aggressive behavior is motivated by a combination of fear and frustration.

It’s pretty apparent that each of these individuals needs some treatment to help improve their current situation. In each case, the treatment will occur in phases. Each phase – from acute care to rehabilitation to long-term prevention & management – is a necessary and important part of a successful treatment plan. Exactly how long each phase lasts will depend on the individual.

Treatment Phase 1: ACUTE CARE

Implement immediate, temporary interventions to prevent injury or behavior issue from worsening; allow the body (or brain) to get to a place where physical therapy or behavior modification can effectively begin.

ACUTE CARE for MARY

MARY is given a compression wrap and crutches. For the next 5-7 days, she is told to avoid putting weight on the ankle. She is to rest, apply ice every 20 minutes during the day, keep the ankle elevated when possible, and take anti-inflammatories to help reduce swelling so that healing can occur, and physical therapy can begin.

ACUTE CARE FOR FLUFFY

SAM is advised to stop taking Fluffy to the dog park and to avoid walking routes where there is any chance of encountering other dogs. She is told to give Fluffy a “stress vacation,” avoiding stressful experiences while providing positive, relaxing activities. The goal is to reduce any chronically elevated stress levels so that learning can occur, and behavior modification can begin. Sam is also advised to contact a local veterinary behaviorist to determine whether medication would be helpful in setting the stage for learning to occur.

Treatment Phase 2: REHABILITATION

Physical therapy or behavior modification begins, focused on building/rebuilding the individual’s relevant functional abilities. Rehab occurs gradually to reduce the risk of re-injury/regression.

REHABILITATION for MARY

MARY starts her physical therapy. She begins with low-impact stretching exercises. Over weeks and months, she slowly and carefully builds up to more rigorous, high-impact physical exercises. Throughout, the focus is on rebuilding strength and flexibility in her injured ankle and the rest of her body.

REHABILITATION FOR FLUFFY

SAM starts working with Fluffy on confidence building, frustration tolerance & attention on leash. She also starts Fluffy on a behavior medication to help her better cope with stress and frustration. Over weeks and months, she works on desensitization and counterconditioning around other dogs on walks to help Fluffy feel more relaxed and comfortable when she encounters other dogs at increasingly close distances. They also work on slow, careful one-on-one introductions to appropriate doggy playmates at the behavior consultant’s training facility.

Treatment Phase 3: PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT

Ongoing maintenance exercises serve to retain progress made during rehabilitation. Semi-permanent or permanent alterations to lifestyle and/or environment mitigate risks of re-injury/regression.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT for MARY

MARY is running regularly again! She wears an ankle wrap and new, more supportive shoes on runs to provide her ankle with extra stability, and she avoids rocky and uneven trails. During humid weather, she takes pain medication to manage some mild arthritis in her ankle, and she takes a few days off to rest if her ankle starts bothering her. She goes to the gym and does regular strength training and stretching exercises to reduce risk of reinjury.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT FOR FLUFFY

SAM and Fluffy go on daily walks and are able to pass most dogs successfully! Sam uses a front-clip harness and brings treats with her on walks so she can continue to practice & reinforce the skills they worked on during behavior modification. Fluffy still takes daily behavior medication, but the dose has been reduced. Sam avoids walking routes & times of day when dog traffic is especially high. She no longer visits the dog park and instead arranges playdates with a couple of dog friends in her neighborhood. Sam follows a specific protocol when introducing Fluffy to a new dog, and Fluffy wears a comfy basket muzzle until the initial “get to know you” period has passed. There are certain types of dogs that Fluffy just doesn’t enjoy, and Sam avoids those dogs and does not attempt introductions.

Additional Considerations

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You’re about to learn a couple of other important parallels hidden within in the descriptions of the treatment phases we just outlined together:

1. SETBACKS HAPPEN.

Sometimes during treatment, we misjudge our progress and our abilities, or we’re faced with an unanticipated, unavoidable situation we’re not yet ready for. As a result, we have setbacks in progress that require us to step back a phase (or spend more time in the current phase) before progressing again. Let’s use our friends, Mary, Sam & Fluffy, as examples again:

MARY’S SETBACK

About 6 weeks into physical therapy, Mary went on vacation and tried running along the beach one morning. About one mile in, she recognized her mistake; her ankle was throbbing. She needed to rest for a few days and take meds to alleviate the swelling and pain. Her physical therapist instructed her to go back to her “Week 4” exercises, then work her way back up to where she was pre-beach run.

FLUFFY’S SETBACK

Fluffy was making some exciting, positive strides during her behavior modification program. She was becoming less reactive & hypervigilant on walks, and she seemed more relaxed at home too. After about 4 weeks of practice, Sam decided to try taking Fluffy back to the dog park, just to see if she did better after the 4-week break. About 10 minutes into the visit, Fluffy got into a fight and Sam left in tears. For the next few days, Fluffy was far more reactive to other dogs on walks, even at far distances. Sam took a step back and worked on some of their foundation exercises, and after about a week and a half, the team got back where they were prior to the dog park visit.

Setbacks happen to EVERYONE. All we can do is take a breath, recognize that it’s usually not the end of the world, and get back to work.

2. LIMITATIONS CAN EXIST.

Depending on the severity of, and/or genetic predisposition toward the issue, there can be lifelong limitations on the amount of progress to be made. Long term management and modifications to our environment, activities, and routines may be required to reduce the risk of re-injury/regression. Let’s review some limitations that were mentioned in Treatment Phase 3: Prevention & Management for both Mary and Fluffy:

MARY’S LIMITATIONS

• Mary is no longer able to safely run on rocky or rough terrain
• She is required to wear an ankle wrap, along with extra-supportive shoes
• She is required to do regular strength and flexibility conditioning
• She sometimes needs meds to help with the arthritis that resulted from the injury

FLUFFY’S LIMITATIONS

• Fluffy requires ongoing reinforcement of her new, more appropriate behaviors
• Sam avoids very high traffic dog areas
• She and Fluffy will no longer visit the dog park
• Fluffy wears a muzzle when being introduced to new dog friends; not all dogs are candidates to become Fluffy’s friends
• Fluffy continues to take daily behavior medication to help with her low frustration tolerance and her inherent difficulty coping with stress

Limitations are a very real and normal part of the process, both for physical injuries and for behavior issues. If we focus only on the limitations, it’s easy to get discouraged. But the most important parts of Mary’s, and Sam & Fluffy’s, stories is that things are a whole lot better than they were before. Mary is RUNNING again! And Sam & Fluffy are enjoying their walks together, and they have a safe, fun way to meet new dog friends. And that’s AMAZING. The focus is on making things better, not perfect.

Final Thoughts

Behavior modification for complex behavior issues is challenging but also unbelievably rewarding and worth it. When we better understand the end-to-end process (and what “finished” really looks like), it can make the journey a whole lot less frustrating and make it easier to celebrate our dogs’ incremental improvements.

Keep up the great work, and Happy Training!

The post What Can Sprained Ankles Teach Us About Dog Behavior Modification? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Just like with people, a dog’s emotions have a big influence on their behavior. If they no longer feel fearful, or anxious, or frustrated in the presence of a trigger, the reason to react goes away. Working to change a dog’s emotional response to their triggers is one of the most important parts of a behavior modification program, and it’s done through a process called Counterconditioning & Desensitization.

Ready for Action: Understanding the Stress Response

When your dog is faced with a trigger that is too close for comfort, the negative emotions they experience set off a stress response in the body that says “Potential Danger Nearby! Prepare for Action!” The physiological changes that happen next are involuntary, meaning your dog has no control over them.

During a stress response, adrenaline and cortisol are released into the blood stream. These hormones cause your dog to experience a range of INVOLUNTARY physiological responses: their heart beats faster, their rate of breathing increases, their blood pressure rises. The adrenaline in their system causes tiny airways in the lungs to open wider, allowing more oxygen into the body. Heightened alertness and greater sensitivity to sights and sounds follow, as does an elevated startle response.

Our dogs’ brains and bodies have prepared them for action in an effort to help them stay safe. It’s easy to see why the next thing that often happens is lunging, barking, growling, or snapping at the trigger that prompted those negative emotions and physiological stress responses in the first place.

Changing the Emotional Response

Counterconditioning & Desensitization (CC/DS) uses principles of classical conditioning to change the emotional responses our dogs have to their triggers, from negative, to neutral or positive. Remember, no negative feelings, no more reactions!

CC/DS is very similar to exposure therapy in humans, which involves helping a patient overcome something that causes them fear or anxiety by exposing them to the source of their anxiety a little at a time, starting with low intensity exposure and gradually building up to full intensity or “the real deal.”

With dogs, we do more than just exposing them to a trigger during CC/DS sessions. We also add something pleasant or appetitive – like turkey or hot dogs! – in the presence of the trigger to further aid in the learning process.

The Key to Effective Counterconditioning & Desensitization

The sweet spot for Counterconditioning & Desensitization is when your dog is just at threshold in relation to their trigger. “At threshold” is the point where your dog notices the trigger in the environment and displays mild concern but is still able to disengage and move onto other things.

By allowing your dog to observe their trigger at this low intensity (and providing them extra yummy treats at the same time), we’re allowing their mild feelings of concern to dissipate – instead of escalating into a full-blown stress response – and be replaced with feelings of relaxation. With repetition, the presence of a trigger at that intensity will no longer cause even mild concern.

The goal with controlled CC/DS sessions is to extinguish any negative emotional responses to the trigger at the current level of intensity, before moving on and increasing the level of intensity. This allows us to make progress in a way that is efficient and low-stress for the learner, and that addresses the root cause of our dog’s aggressive or reactive behavior.

Counterconditioning & Desensitization in Action

This video from our free Leash Reactivity video series reviews how to use counterconditioning and desensitization techniques for dogs who display on-leash reactivity – lunging, barking, and growling at people or other dogs.

Additional Resources

If you’d like to learn more, check out our free online course for leash reactive dogs! It’s packed with additional info and videos like this, and includes a step-by-step training plan to help improve your leash reactive dog’s behavior on walks.

• The Leash Reactive Dog Course: onlineschool.instinctdogtraining.com

Happy Training!

The post Counterconditioning & Desensitization: Changing an Emotional Response appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Practice makes perfect, right? This statement is true for dogs as much as for people!  The behaviors your dog “practices” are the ones likely to be repeated again in the future – regardless of whether those behaviors are ones we like, such as sitting on cue, or ones we don’t like, such as barking at dogs on walks.

Practicing Unwanted Behaviors Makes It Harder to Teach New Habits

Practiced behaviors may actually get stronger or harder to change, just by allowing them to happen.  Blocking your dog’s opportunity to rehearse unwanted behavior patterns doesn’t automatically teach them how to feel or to behave in those situations, but it will improve your dog’s response to training interventions and make it easier for them to learn new and better habits.

It may be helpful to think about this in terms of green, yellow, and red emotional states.

Your responsibility is to keep your dog as consistently in “green” as you possibly can, unless you are focusing on teaching your dog how to respond to specific situations, in which case you’ll briefly create a hint of a “yellow” situation, then immediately provide your dog with their favorite reward or give them a cue to guide their behavior to something you can reward.

Specifics of how to do that for your dog will be covered within behavior modification or training sessions, but these interventions will be MUCH more effective by proactively managing your dog and their environment between training sessions to prevent that unwanted practicing.

Staying in “Green”: Tips to Avoid Practicing Unwanted Behaviors

Here are a few general guidelines to help you and your dog avoid practicing some common unwanted behaviors while you are navigating through a behavior modification program:

Leash Reactivity

• If your dog is likely to react to people or dogs in public, try adjusting your route or maintaining enough distance that they are able to remain calm and non-reactive. If you live in a busy urban environment, try to walk at “off hours” and avoid peak busy times.

Alert Barking at Passersby from In the Home

• If your dog is likely to react to passersby from your home, by barking or charging the front windows, make a point of blocking access using a gate or perhaps by covering the lower portion of the window with an opaque covering to limit their view.  Ideally, the gate or window covering is something that can be removed during training sessions but then put back into position between sessions.

Reactivity in the Car

• If your dog is likely to react to people or other dogs while riding in a vehicle, using a seat belt, having them ride in a crate, or perhaps using a tool such as a “Calming/Thunder Cap” can be helpful for minimizing this behavior.

Barking/Charging the Fence Line

• If your dog is likely to bark and/or charge the fence line in response to neighbors, dogs, or passersby, it may be necessary to temporarily limit their access to the yard to times when they can be directly supervised. It may be necessary to be out in the yard with them so that you can prevent rather than interrupt aggressive reactions. It may also be necessary to use a long training leash for full control rather than allowing them time in the yard off leash.

Taking steps to avoid having your dog practice unwanted behaviors will allow for more efficient progress as you work through a behavior modification plan. If you need advice on effective management strategies, or if you’re ready to start a behavior modification program with your dog, reach out to a positive reinforcement based, certified dog behavior consultant for help.

Resources for Behavior Help:

• www.instinctdogtraining.com
• www.iaabc.org

The post Practice Makes Perfect: Avoid Rehearsing Unwanted Behaviors appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

And while dog daycare can offer physical exercise, mental stimulation, and companionship to some dogs during otherwise long and lonely work days, it’s important for dog owners to know that a) not all daycares are created equal; b) not all dogs will enjoy daycare (and this is normal); and c) there are lots of fantastic non-daycare options that can provide dogs with exercise, mental stimulation, and companionship.

Understanding Normal Dog Social Behavior

When we’re considering daycare as a potential care option for our dogs, it’s important that we also understand what is considered normal social behavior for a dog.

Young Dogs are More Socially Adventurous

Typically, puppies and young dogs are more outgoing and social, ready to make friends and engage in play with almost every dog they meet. Young dogs often thrive in an appropriate, well-run daycare setting, as they have the energy level and motivation to play for extended periods of time. This youthful enthusiasm does come with a flip side though: younger dogs don’t always self-manage and fail to give themselves the breaks they need during long bouts of play, and so often benefit from helpful humans stepping in to encourage pauses and downtime. Be sure to look for a daycare that is structured to give dogs breaks and quiet times throughout the day, so they can receive much-needed mental breaks in addition to social time.

Growing Up: Trading Clubs for Pubs

Just like humans, our dogs mature. And with maturity comes a shift in social preferences (like trading in your favorite college nightclub for a low-key pub!). Most dogs are going to transition away from the “All-Play-All-the-Time-with-All-the-Dogs!!” puppy mindset and fall somewhere in the ‘socially selective’ range as adults. This means our adult dogs might still like to greet many dogs and will enjoy playing with some, but often don’t enjoy active play with lots of dogs at once, or for extended periods of time. An adult dog who wants to play with every dog is actually outside of the range of normal adult social behavior, as is a dog who behaves aggressively to all other dogs.

My experience from running my own dog daycare in Canada for many years is that dogs who attend since puppyhood will, at some point (usually between 2-4 years of age), stop enjoying daycare. As daycare owners, this was always hard for us; we enjoyed seeing these familiar dog faces over months and years and developed strong relationships with them as friends and caregivers. But, it was usually pretty clear when a dog stopped having fun, and it was our job to ensure they weren’t being put in a situation that caused them stress or unhappiness.

Signs Daycare Isn’t the Right Fit Anymore

If your dog currently attends daycare, it’s a great idea to check in regularly with the daycare manager or owner about any changes in your dog’s behavior. Questions to ask include:

• Is my dog playing less often than they used to?
• Does my dog ask to leave the play room more frequently, or spend more time by the exit?
• Does my dog seem less tolerant of other dogs, quicker to snap or get into altercations?
• Does my dog seem more stressed or uncomfortable as the day goes on?

If your daycare provider notices any of these signs in your dog, you can work with them to try switching your dog to quieter, less frequent or shorter days if possible.

Sometimes though, these adjustments aren’t enough, and it is in the dog’s best interest to find an alternate activity that is less stressful, and more enjoyable for them.

Alternate Dog-Socialization Activities

We recently conducted a survey of dog daycare users. When asked about their primary reasons for sending their dog to daycare, most owners told us daycare was a way to give their dog opportunities to socialize with other dogs. If your dog can no longer attend daycare, there are other social activities available!

Dog-Friendly?

If your dog likes to play with many other dogs, but just isn’t a happy camper at daycare for whatever reason, there are lots of other options for dog-dog interaction:

• Dog Runs: Dog runs should be used sparingly, as a busy dog run may too similar to a daycare for your pup. Going to the dog run at quieter times, and for short bouts (no more than 45 minutes) works best for most dog-friendly dogs.
• Parks: Visiting dog-friendly hiking trails or public parks with designated off-leash hours can be a very enjoyable social activity for your dog. Bigger, more open spaces make it easier for your dog to avoid or move away from other dogs, which removes a lot of pressure in social interactions and sets your dog up for success.
• Play Dates: One-on-one play is always our preferred way for dogs to play, and most dogs seem to prefer it too! Meeting up with a friend and their friendly dog for a doggy play date in your backyard or in another safe, dog-friendly spot is a great, low-stress socialization option.
• Group Walks: Some dogs really enjoy going on group walks with other dogs. You can do this yourself by coordinating and meeting up with several dog owners, or you can send your dog with a qualified pair of dog walkers who work together to take dogs out for walks in small groups.

Dog Selective?

The majority of our survey responders described their dog as ‘dog selective’ – the dog enjoys meeting and playing with some dogs, but not ‘many’ or ‘all’ dogs. Most dogs with this type of social preference may not enjoy daycare, especially on busy days, but they have other options:

• Parks: Dog selective dogs will generally have a more pleasant time in a social setting that allows them space to move away and avoid interacting. Large parks that allow dogs off-leash can be a great spot for this, especially if you have the ability to take your dog to a quieter, less concentrated area with few dogs to allow for some fun off-leash exploring.
• Long Line Walks: Long line ‘sniffer’ walks are great for dogs who aren’t reliable off leash, or when off leash hours aren’t available. While this isn’t actually a dog socialization activity, don’t underestimate its value – exploring and sniffing is wonderful a mental enrichment and can really tire out your pooch.
• Play Dates: Dogs in this category often enjoy time spent with a few good dog friends in a back yard, at the park, hiking, or at the beach.
• Dog Walker: A paired or small group dog walker can also be a great option for dog selective dogs, as they get to engage in a parallel activity (walking together), but aren’t being asked to deal with rambunctious wrestling or interacting with a large number of strange dogs.

Fearful or Aggressive?

Not every dog loves being around other dogs (and that’s okay). Some dogs will forever prefer to engage in only non-dog-focused activities, of which there are many. But many dogs who display fearful or aggressive behaviors around other dogs can still enjoy spending time around a small group of carefully selected canine friends after a gradual introduction process. (Note: If your dog has seriously injured another dog, always consult with a professional trainer for guidance before attempting to introduce your dog to new dogs)

• Dog Run: The dog run is not recommended for dogs who display fearful or aggressive behavior toward other dogs.
• Park: Dogs who are fearful of other dogs will often enjoy long line sniffer walks in quieter areas of public parks. If your dog has a history of being aggressive towards other dogs, avoid areas of public parks where another dog may run up to you unexpectedly, always use a long line, and condition your dog to comfortably wear a basket muzzle.
• Paired Walks or Private Walks: Depending your dog’s level of fearful or aggressive behavior, a paired or private walk with a skilled dog walker can be a great way to provide exercise and let your dog get out and see the world!
• Day Training: Day training – where a trainer visits your home during your work day to train your dog – is a great option to break up your dog’s day, give them some enrichment, mental exercise, and improve their manners too!

If you feel your dog fits into this category, we recommend finding a great positive reinforcement-based trainer skilled in dog-dog socialization. While it’s generally not possible to take a dog from dog aggressive to entirely dog social, a trainer can work with you to help your feel more comfortable and make better choices in the presence of other dogs.

Alternate Activities to Reduce Time Spent Home Alone

If you previously used dog daycare so you dog wouldn’t be home alone all day, or just wanted them to burn off some energy, suitable alternative options can include:

• Pet Sitter: Some people offer an all-day pet sitting service at your home or theirs. This is a great alternative to daycare for a dog who cannot stay home alone. You may be able to find a friend who works from home or works a different schedule than you, who would love to have a canine companion part-time as well.
• Hiking Service: These services often offer pick-up and drop-off, and can work well for dogs who need to be supervised during the day, but can’t attend daycare.
• Day Training: Typically, Day Training programs involve a trainer visiting your home during your work day to train your dog. Alternately, programs may be structured where the dog goes to a training facility during the day to work on obedience or behavior modification but not necessarily socialize with other dogs. Again, this is a great option for a dog that can’t stay home alone.

Finding a Great Pet Care Provider

When researching a daycare, pet sitter, dog walker or trainer, it’s important to remember that there are a variety of different styles and types. For example, some daycares may be large, but still well run. Some may be smaller, and some may focus more on individual enrichment (training, walks etc.) than large play groups.

Regardless of variation there are some common qualities to consider while hunting for a good place for your pooch.

First, you should get a general welcoming, caring feeling from the staff. The facility (if there is one) should look and smell clean – expect a ‘doggy’ smell but it should not be overpowering and should not smell strongly of urine or feces.

Second, play and walking groups should generally be split by size of the dogs. For safety, small dogs (under 35lbs) should not be in a mixed group with large dogs. More important than the total number of dogs is the ratio of staff to dogs. In a daycare, you want to see ideally one handler per 15 dogs. Too many dogs per dog walker is also potentially unsafe. A large group of dogs with not enough staff to supervise is at a much higher risk for incidents.

Third, it’s a great sign if the care provider wants to take time to get to know your dog. They should ask questions about your dog’s behavior and history, and likely will want to do a shorter initial visit to evaluate behavior and get your dog acclimated to their environment.

Final Verdict

Overall, daycare in moderation can be a great, fulfilling activity for many dogs. Just be aware that it is not for every dog, and your dog may not enjoy it forever. Relying on daycare as your main source of exercise and stimulation for your dog is not recommended. Stick to no more than three days per week, and make sure you allot time to walk, train and play with your dog as well. Getting to spend time around other dogs is important for some dogs, but more than anything, dogs want to spend time doing mutually enjoyably activities with their people.

The post Dog Daycare: When, Why & What Else? appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Dr. Emily Levine, DVM, DACVB is a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, co-owner of Instinct Englewood and owner of the Animal Behavior Clinic of NJ.  ***Remember, veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists are the only individuals qualified to discuss and recommend behavior medications for your pet.*** 

1. THEY EXIST

Yes, there are behavior medications for dogs. In veterinary medicine, many of the same behavior medications used in people arealso used in pets. Different classes of medication can be used for various behavioral conditions, from fear, anxiety, and phobias, to compulsive disorders, cognitive dysfunction, and arousal and frustration issues.

2. THEY’RE BACKED BY SCIENCE

There is a robust body of scientific literature spanning decades that supports the efficacy of behavior medications in a wide variety of species, including dogs. Medications work by altering neurotransmission (how the brain transfers information), which affects the products made by your dog’s brain cells. These different products, in turn, influence many different aspects of neurobiology. Changes that result from medication can include:

• Growth of new neurons and formation of new neural pathways
• Increased or decreased amounts of neurotransmitters such as serotonin, dopamine, and norepinephrine
• More efficient information processing
• Ability to learn more easily

3. THEY MUST BE RECOMMENDED, PRESCRIBED, AND MONITORED BY A VETERINARIAN

Behavior medications can only be prescribed by veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists. Ideally, it is best to work with a board certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) or an experienced veterinarian with a special interest in behavioral disorders; these specialized professionals can help assess the pros and cons of various medications for each individual patient, and can also help with the important process of ruling out medical conditions prior to diagnosing a behavioral disorder. There are many endocrine disorders, neurologic disorders, gastrointestinal disorders, dermatological disorders, and musculoskeletal disorders that can contribute to or cause behavior issues.

4. THEY’RE NOT FOR EVERY DOG

Many dogs with fear, anxiety, or arousal issues can make wonderful progress through appropriate training efforts, and do not require medication as part of a behavior modification plan. Medications should be considered as part of a behavior program only when a qualified medical professional – a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist – determines that the behavioral condition of your pet is not falling within normal parameters and/or is not responding to appropriate behavior modification efforts.

When might a veterinarian recommend behavior medication(s)?

1. When a dog is regularly experiencing levels of fear, anxiety, or arousal such that it is significantly impacting the dog’s quality of life or impairing the dog’s ability to learn.
   • The dog experiences instances of severe panic and fear
   • The dog experiences generalized anxiety, in which they are moderately anxious or worried in a wide variety of situations
2. When a dog’s physiological responses to specific events or stimuli are so intense as to make learning without the help of medication difficult or impossible.
   • The dog quickly becomes over-aroused, agitated, or frustrated
   • The dog is slow to recover after becoming aroused

5. THEY CAN IMPROVE YOUR DOG’S QUALITY OF LIFE

For dogs who experience severe episodes of anxiety, fear, and panic, medication can provide relief from mental anguish and suffering. If a dog regularly reacts to certain fear- or anxiety-inducing situations or stimuli by trembling, drooling, urinating or defecating, attempting to flee, or inflicting harm to themselves or others, this dog is experiencing a welfare crisis; it is our responsibility as pet owners to act immediately to provide relief as quickly as possible. Appropriate behavior medications can be a needed and necessary first step in helping to ease the mental pain experienced by these dogs.

6. THEY CAN MAKE LEARNING POSSIBLE

Medications can help properly regulate a dog’s internal, physiological state so that learning can take place. Some dogs – often those who become easily over-aroused, agitated, or frustrated – regularly experience an internal state that prevents them from being able to learn new behaviors and responses. In these situations, their body, just like a diabetic with insulin, may need medications to help regulate their internal environment. Think of this as “Setting the Stage” for learning to occur and for training & behavior modification efforts to be successfully absorbed.

7. THEY CAN HELP YOUR DOG DO MORE, and LESS

If your dog’s prescribed medication is working as it should, you should expect to see the following types of behavioral changes:

• MORE:
  • Your dog is comfortable MORE often
  • Your dog is happier MORE often
  • Your dog is confident and able to cope with their environment MORE often
  • Your dog is MORE easily able to learn new behaviors & habits
  • You and your dog can do MORE together
• LESS:
  • Your dog’s reactions or behaviors are LESS intense, LESS frequent, or shorter in duration than before
  • Your dog takes LESS time to recover following an episode, reaction, or stressful event

Sleepy, Dopey, Grumpy? Remember, the ONLY reason your veterinarian will prescribe medication for a dog’s behavior is to improve and enhance their quality of life. If you start your dog on medication and they appear drowsy, drugged, out of it, etc., your dog’s veterinarian needs to be notified to make appropriate adjustments.

8. THEY’RE NOT A QUICK FIX

If your dog is prescribed medication, it is important to understand that it is a process, just like it is for people going through therapy. We are fortunate today to have many different medication options, and it may take time to find the right one(s) for your pet. The best way to determine efficacy is to monitor behavioral progress as you are going through the appropriate science-based behavior modification and training. And while there are some conditions for which medications in and of themselves can make a big difference quickly, there are other conditions for which the results are more nuanced and subtle, especially at first. Further, certain classes of medications can take 4 weeks to fully take effect, while others may work much faster. For these reasons, it is imperative that an experienced veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) is actively monitoring and adjusting medications.

9. THEY’RE NOT A FOREVER THING…Usually

The goal is always to wean your dog off the medication(s), with the hope that once your dog is less anxious, aroused, aggressive, etc., they can now learn and retain new, healthy behaviors through training & behavior modification techniques. Over time, this new learning builds new neuronal connections in the brain, such that medication is no longer needed. There are some dogs, however, for whom medication is a lifelong requirement. Put simply, these dogs are similar to a person with diabetes who requires insulin – their body just doesn’t make something it requires to function properly. How fortunate for these dogs that there is help available through veterinary medicine.

This blog post was written by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Emily Levine, DVM, DACVB.

Click to download a pdf version here: Behavior Medication Handout.

The post Behavior Medication for Dogs: 9 Things You Should Know appeared first on Instinct Dog Behavior & Training.

Super sniffers, or do the eyes have it?

Incredible. Amazing. Almost magical. If we used any of these terms to describe a dog’s sense of smell, few would argue. After all, there are reams of research showing the many ways in which dogs are used for their superhero olfactory capabilities: to sniff out cancer, to detect dangerous explosives, to locate bedbugs and other pests, to find lost humans in the woods, and heck, even to track marine wildlife while on a boat in the ocean (!).

But did you know that, unless they are specifically trained in scent work, dogs will often use sight – not smell – in everyday decision making? That’s right: whether it’s differentiating a large quantity of food from a small one⁽¹⁾, or accurately choosing between their owner and a stranger⁽²⁾, the average dog often chooses sight more frequently, and uses it more effectively, than smell. In fact, when asked to rely on only smell in such studies, dogs generally perform at only chance (~50-50) levels.

Hold it right there, you say! How can this be?! Dogs’ noses are so incredible, amazing, almost magical. How could they NOT make use of this superpower at every opportunity? Think of it this way: using sight is like scrolling through the headlines on your Facebook newsfeed. Using smell is like clicking through and reading an article.

Sniffing is exploratory; when dogs sniff they are actively gathering and analyzing information about the world around them. Just as we don’t have the time, mental resources, or motivation to read every single article we come across, dogs aren’t going to use their fantastic sense of smell to analyze every single thing in their environment; and so they use sight for quick and easy (though incomplete) information gathering and decision-making.

Smell Check: Sniffing Habits and Emotional States

Dogs sniff sometimes, but not other times, and that’s a normal part of selectively filtering information. But taking a closer look at your dog’s sniffing habits can reveal important information about how they’re feeling in different situations.

Let’s go back to the Facebook analogy: we are far more likely to click on and read an article that is interesting or personally relevant to us, and less likely to do so if it’s something we don’t really care about. That’s normal. But, we are also less likely to read the article (to engage in information-gathering) if we are stressed, anxious, tired, overwhelmed, in a hurry, or distracted by something else in the environment.

If you notice an absence of exploratory sniffing – either air scenting, with their head up and sniffing the air, or ground sniffing, with head down and snuffling along the ground – from your dog in certain situations or environments, it could mean they are also feeling stressed, anxious, or overwhelmed. This will happen occasionally, and it’s normal. But if you notice a pattern of your dog observing her environment using only sight and sound, and rarely smell, it’s likely a sign that she needs some help to feel more confident, relaxed, and comfortable out in the world.

Teach Your Dog to Read the Articles

As humans, we often need to be taught and encouraged to ‘read the articles’ – to seek additional information and to think critically about that information – especially when we encounter something new and unfamiliar. It’s easy to make a snap judgment (angry Facebook emoji!) with limited information, especially about something that is unfamiliar to us or that makes us a bit uncomfortable. Taking the time to gather additional information gives us confidence and helps us feel more secure about these new situations and topics.

The same is true for dogs! If you have a dog who is anxious or uncomfortable in certain situations, they can also be taught and encouraged to slow down and gather additional information through their nose, to help them feel more confident. An easy place to start is by introducing your dog to some beginner scent games at home, then slowly starting to play those games in more distracting situations. You can also teach your dog a special sniffing cue, such as “Check it Out” to encourage them to use their powerful nose to gather a wealth of valuable information about the world around them.

Try it! Introduce a “Check it Out” cue

• Start in a safe, low-distracting environment where your dog is comfortable and relaxed.
• Hide a treat under a small piece of paper, then point and cue your dog to “Check it out!” Praise when they get the treat.
• After a few repetitions like this, introduce additional pieces of paper, but place a treat under only one of the pieces. Again, cue them to “Check it out!”
• At first, your dog can watch the whole process of you placing a treat under one of the pieces of paper, but as soon as they’re enthusiastically moving in to retrieve the treat, you should prevent them from seeing where the treat is placed (so they switch to using smell, instead of sight, to locate the treat).
• After practicing over several days, in short sessions of just 1-2 minutes each, try giving the cue, “Check it out” and pointing at something in your house (a backpack, a plant, etc.). If your dog moves to the object and sniffs for just a second, praise and toss a treat on the ground next to the item.
• Repeat the game, slowly branching out to more objects and environments over several weeks, and waiting longer before praising and rewarding with a treat after your dog sniffs.

Want to learn more about a dog’s incredible sense of smell? Check out this truly fantastic video by Alexandra Horowitz, “How do dogs ‘see’ with their noses?”:

Happy Training!

Sarah Fraser, CDBC, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP

Co-Founder

1. Horowitz, A., Hecht, J., & Dedrick, A. (2013). Smelling more or less: Investigating the olfactory

experience of the domestic dog. Learning And Motivation, 44(4), 207-217. doi:10.1016/j.lmot.2013.02.002

2. Polgár, Z., Miklósi, Á., & Gácsi, M. (2015). Strategies used by pet dogs for solving olfaction-

based problems at various distances. Plos ONE, 10(7)

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